We're planning on touring the Baltic States later this year - does anyone have any suggestions of things to see, places to go etc. etc? We will be in the area for 2/3 weeks.

Thanks

Mermaid

You're talking about three beautiful but distinct countries (unless you also plan to get further afield -- Kaliningrad, St Petersburg, perhaps home via Finland and Scandinavia? Or Poland and Germany??) that have a lot to offer --

If you give us an idea of what you're interested in, maybe it would be easier to help. History? Culture? Off-roading? Beer? Football? Beaches? Hiking? Music? (All recommended, except perhaps the football.)

--Mike

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Hi Mike,

In total we'll be away about 5/6 weeks - going via Germany, Poland and returning through Sweden, Denmark. I'm guessing from the time available we'll spend 2/3 weeks in the Baltics.
I can find plenty to see/do for the rest of the route but anyone I speak to who have gone through the Baltics say that there's nothing but trees apart from the major towns - I don't believe them!!
Our main interests are: 'real' life not tourist life, walking, history, culture, music, natural environment, regional food etc. We prefer to avoid the main roads but as we're both on Triumph Tigers real off roading is a bit too much - gravel tracks/dirt roads are fine.
We're also planning on camping (as well as a mixture of B&B, hotels etc.) but like something in the way of facilities - ie. water, toilet! It sounds as though most camping in the Baltics is basically in a field!

Any help, suggestions etc. would be most appreciated.

Of course don't believe this kind of BS as it is typical to people who just drive through countries via main transit routes. But we have lots of forest, though.

Actually it is very difficult to give exact suggestions about what to do here as people are all different and have different interests. I recommend to get a travel guidebook, read it to see what is available and then pick places that seem interesting to you. And as you say you like to travel small routes, there is plenty of small gravel roads in Estonia. Avoid main transit routes as these are really quite boring for adventure travel.

About Estonia you can download small travel guide in PDF format.

My quick suggestions would be old town in the capital Tallinn, island Saaremaa (quite touristic in summer) with its nice town Kuressaare. Also, very close to Tallinn is small Soviet chemical factory/mining town Maardu, this is a very strange town that partly feels more like long gone USSR. It is completely untouristic and many Estonians even don't know what is in there. There is more Russian influence in North-East, with abandoned Soviet industrial objects etc. Actually if you take small gravel backroads you can find abandoned houses and stuff like that all over Estonia -- something you don't often see in the West. We also have abandoned Soviet nuclear missile launch base and other military objets.

If you need good maps of Estonia, I strongly recommend this Regio road atlas (available in supermarkets for less than 20 EUR):

It basically has all roads you can drive and also you can easily find unpopulated places as housing is marked on the map. Just keep on small roads and I'm sure you can spend a month here.

Big trailies (like a Triumph Tiger) is an ideal bike here in Estonia, IMHO. If you like gravel roads then this will be your heaven, with decent mix of slow and fast curves, fast straights to get the best joy out of your bike that has both longer distance comfort, power and capability. 600cc or less bikes can a bit too "cramped" when loaded if you plan to ride a lot which you'll probably do.

Some good info already posted by Rebaseonu. I add that Hiiumaa (the second biggest island) is definately better choice than Saaremaa for you, especially in terms of it's having multiple times less tourists, more adventurous dirt/gravel roads and somewhat more unique scenery.

The best if you visit both Hiiumaa and Saaremaa, there's a daily ferry connection between the islands.

Some pics from Hiiumaa and Saaremaa just to get the idea:


In Tallinn "a must" is the old Medieval Town, the rest of the city is relatively similar to anything else you see in Europe.

There are dozens of good roads and destinations in the inland part. From the small village of Vask-Narva in the east to Häädemeeste in the west, from the beautiful banks of Paldiski to the hilly Haanja... Actually I mean the whole contry criss-crossed here. Whether you like to see a sunset on the Paldiski banks along with having a cooling estonian or have a swim in the lake Peipsi, visit the highest peak in the Baltic states in Haanja just to get that "ironic feeling" (you'll get it once you're there ) or just to ride 400+kms of gravel per day to enjoy the roadside scenery varying from the beutiful nature/forests to the artificial abondoned USSR buildings, ...or have it all mixed is up to you and your travelling style.


A good tip for Estonia: in Regio maps, gravel roads are usually marked with the yellow line: plot your destination(s) to get the most done on the gravel, avoid tar an affordable, slight de-tour compromise if needed. You'll do have some mixture with tar roads anyway (which are "bumpy" in most cases too btw), but the interesting phenomena here is that the scenery on gravel roads can be in 70-80% of cases marked as "beautiful", altough Regio maps mark "beautiful" roads with a green sideline, but only for tarmac roads. Thus the the principle is simple - follow the yellow line to enjoy your ride

Another good tip involves a bit more technical tracks which are marked "colourless" (just two parallel lines). in Regio maps. I highly recommend riding those very small roads in the national parks (only where vehicles are allowed), forest areas etc. You just need to check if it's "ridable" or not - some of them may be fully swamped by spring floods or after the rain, but there's no reason not to try - you can always turn around, it's a small country and you'll never get lost or lose too much time in any struggle. But if you find a nice ridable version of that road in a beautiful "environment" (i.e. like national parks), you'll enjoy it. Usually they are some small 4x4 tracks (you can ride them much faster with the bike of course), usually with the condition like these:



Good roads, Margus

My tips pale in comparison to what's gone before, but...:

1. the border at German-Polish border at Swinoujscie is closed to motor vehicles -- swing down via Szczecin to avoid getting very angry with the jobsworth border guards.

2. the Polish-Roosian border at Gronowo is hell on earth if you're Polish or Roosian. But I was waved to the front by everyone in a queue of 400+ cars expecting to take three DAYS to cross the border.. and got through in 2 hours. Be very grateful that the locals are so friendly...

3. Kaliningrad is absolutely worth the hassle of visa, discomfort, dodgy police etc for its slightly alien feel. You won't meet many tourists, or find any tourist literature, or info... what stuff you will find will be cant about Kant.. but people are generally approachable and its a unique chance to get some impression of the Stalinist 'good old days' (mixed with very capitalist casinos.) I was there in November so elected to say in hotel rather than camping!

4. The Curonian Spit between Kaliningrad and Lithuania is gorgeous.. nature reserve, very quiet out of season, good camping, filthy drinking water, highly recommended.

4. In Lithuania, Klaipeda could make more of its incredible history. Good luck finding a museum that's open when you're there. That said, I managed a long night in some heavy nightclubs where you get frisked for guns before you get in.. unless you look like the type who actually carries a gun!.. which was a novel experience.

5. Latvia: Liepaja is a good little town.. Latvia's "summer city".. music festival in the summer.. stay at the Karosta Military Prison (now a B&B) for something different.. I didn't like Riga so much, though the snow may have been to blame. Too many Brit male tourists looking for strip clubs and hookers. The Old Town was less attractive than Tallinn's but perhaps that just means it's less chocolate-boxey. Recommended: the Museum of Occupations in both cities. There'll be more good camping at Saulkrasti, north of Riga.

6: Can't add anything to the great info you've alrady got on Estonia except to say the local bikers are as kind and helpful in the flesh as they are on this site. Was really grateful for their help and time. And for another sense of Soviet times, head up to Narva on the border heading to st Petersburg. It's a depressed, poor, very Roosian town, seems quite different from the rest of Estonia. With fascinating history too -- couple of castles.. centuries of being fought over.

--Mike

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That's fantastic - thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I've already downloaded the PDF travel guide which at an initial look through looks pretty helpful. I'll read it properly from a printed copy!
The photos are also useful - nice to see what we're letting ourselves in for on the roads and the scenery looks fantastic. (Great piccies by the way!)
The info on the border crossings is good to know in advance - should save alot of agro.

Looks like we'd better add a bit more time to our trip!

Hi Mermaid, when are you leaving? The reason for this is a mate and I are doing the same trip, but the other way round. We're leaving 16th July to esbjerg. Wanna meet for a if we pass each other?

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Remember what Yoda said\", there is no try, either do or not do\".

hello mermaid,
we travelled the baltics in 2007.
here is our album about it: Picasa-Webalben - airhead - "escape to th...

if you are interested in the trax, let me know.

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regards...
-=airhead=-
http://www.euroheads.org

I have ridden through the Baltic States a number of times on my way between my bases, using various routes including the Coronian Spit. I am due to fly back just in time for the Ace - look for a Dakar with RUS stickers (not VRM).

Be aware that Kaliningrad is Russia. You will need to obtain a Visa before you start your trip. Also, irrespective of your own insurance/green cards/whatever, you will have to buy a Russian Company Road Insurance at the border- about GBP20 for a month. The rest is EU and your UK Insurance Certificate should give you legal minimum insurance.

Having said that, the Kaliningrad border controls are the smoothest RUS border crossings I have had - less than an hour each. And a smile too!

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Hi Tony,

if you do manage to make it to the ace cafe it would be great to meet up with you also.

Is it possible to then to ride from Kaliningrad to Lithuania via the curonian split and then get a ferry from the spit to the mainland? I couldn't find details of any ferries that would take the bike so I assumed not. If I can then its great news!

As far as Kaliningrad is concerned I know that I need a visa. I've been in touch with the visa agencies referred to on another part of the HU site, and they've been very helpful. I've also been in touch with the Russian embassy, and while a little cold, they've been helpful too. Its come down to me getting a transit visa direct from the embassy (I have to apply no more than 2 months in advance) and I have to take a load of paperwork with me. I forget how much they charge. I only seem to need a transit visa as I won't be stopping overnight (does this seem correct?). I could do exactly the same using a visa agency, but I have to pay them to issue me an 'invitation'. For those that have had Russian visa's would you advise going through an agency rather than going direct to the embassy? If so why?

I know I won't need a carnet, and I've contacted the RAC (that I already have breakdown cover with) and I can pay to get extra cover for all countries I'm going through (except Kaliningrad - Russia). Haven't contacted my insurance yet. The RAC told me that I will need an International Drivers Permit (IDP) and another type of driving permit for Kaliningrad (I forget the name they used). Does this all sound about right?

Is there anything else that peeps think I may have forgotten?

Thanks all,
Rich

There is a very efficient RUS/LITH border half way down the Coronian Spit. They are more used to hikers and pedal cyclists but got my motorbike through in under 15 minutes.

There is a short ferry ride between the northern end of Spit and Klaipeda. It takes about 15 minutes and runs (sails?) every half hour or so. Me and my bike cost under 3 pounds. No waiting, just turn up and go - although cars may have to queue and wait, they always squeeze bikes on.

I read elsewhere on HUBB just now that Green Cards will be valid in RUS. See my post.

The ДПС (roads police/mafia) are, in the absence of a bribe, always happy with just my IDP, Russian Ins Cert and the Temporary Russian Import Cert (V5 equivalent) for the bike.

I'll PM you my mobile so we can meet up at the ACE.

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Quite agree about the northern border post on the Curonian Spit. I was the only vehicle there and both sets of officials were ace. 15 minutes tops.

But it took me two hours to get through the Kaliningrad-Poland border, and to do so I had to queue-jump at *least* 400 cars, driven by Poles and Russians, who were taking up to three *days* to get through.

On a bike, you'll be waved forward with smiles, laughter and cheers. Cars were physically lifted by hand to allow me through.

But I was left with a lasting reminder of how crass and bureaucratic Russia is.

Oh, and as for vegetarian dishes, Rich: I hope you like beetroot and cabbage.

--Mike

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I'm planning to arrive in Tallinn, Estonia (riding from Denmark leaving Copenhagen on 27 July so will arrive either by ferry from Stockholm or Helsinki) sometime in the week of 03 August and then travel down to Latvia to be in Riga on 08 August. Then riding via Lithuania to Penza in Russia and back to Kivoli in Estonia for 22 August before departing out of Tallinn for Stockholm on 25 August.

As you can see, I've got some dates I want to be in particular places but other than that, would be great to share some miles or just some stories with anyone on the road.

Ps. If you sense an 800GS rider listening in to your chat and taking notes at the Ace, it's only me!

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Paul "Every county of England, every country of Europe and every (part of every inhabited) continent of the Earth" 94% done! What's left? Central America, East, Central and West Africa, Australia & New Zealand

Hi Wildman,
we'll be leaving the UK 21st or 22nd of August and then back in the UK no later than 6th September. We'll be about 4 days to a week behind you for most of it, but may catch up with you in Sweden. Keep in touch an we'll see what happens. You can see my rough approximation of a route earlier in this thread.
Rich