How is the route from Tehran to Uzbekistan? I'm planning on going this way to the Pamirs this summer and using a transit visa through Turkmenistan. Is Ashgabat a nightmare? Any advice...

Why would Ashgabat be a nightmare? It's a very clean and pompous city full of bling and gold

The only issue is getting the transit visa and then being on time because it's tied to fixed dates that cannot be changed. You can extend it though, so long as you enter during the validity of the visa. Getting the transit visa requires visa for Iran and Uzbekistan in your passport.

The other option is a tourist visa, but that is costly due to guide and accomodation requirements etc

Ashgabat is fine... the police aren't too bad by former Soviet standards.

Getting a transit visa is pretty simple in Tehran... you can then collect the visa in Mashhad if you want, which is close to the Sarakhs border (for Merv - Turkmenabat - Bukhara), and a smidge closer to the Bajgiran border (for Ashgabat - Darvaza - Konye Urgench - Nukus/Khiva). But Tehran is closer to the Etrek border (for Turkmenbashi - Kazakhstan).

You must have an Uzbek visa (or a Kazakh visa) to get a Turkmen transit visa. It takes about 10 days ($55) or you can get it in 5 days for $85.

You have to apy a fair bit when you enter Turkmenistan... but this is legitimate, with receipts etc - an official rip-off as opposed to an unofficial one.

Overall, I loved Turkmenistan (have transited twice), very, very odd, though some people find it rather depressing. Work out your itinerary carefully to maximise your time (i.e. enter first thing in the morning so as not to waste a day). The police there, in my exprience are not too bad (so long as you don't overstay your visa, drink drive or speed excessively). They are not like the rozzers in Russia or Azerbaijan who will always find some fault with your driving.

IMO a tourist visa is not worth it as you are escorted all the time. With a transit visa you are free!

Daniel

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4.5 years around Eurasia in a Toyota Hilux|http://eurasiaoverland.wordpress.com/
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I agree with Daniel.
in order to get a Turkmen transit visa you basically have to have the visas in your passport of the country you will be entering from ie Iran and the country you will be exiting to ie Uzbekistan or wherever.... It will take about 10 days ($55) or you can get it in 5 days for $85. we did ours in 5 days. but remember the date it starts and ends is final. I had heard that getting an extension is not easy but there again - we never tried as we found 5 days plenty to do what we wanted to do.

Ashgabat is just weird and so very modern-such a surprise when you compare it to the rest of the country - but we had no problems at all there or anywhere in Turkmen- just be aware that if you do want to take photos in Ashgabat always ask the police first and they are everywhere, every street corner. they will often say no, no photos allowed or yes but only in a certain direction or of a certain statue.
the cost to enter Turkmen is quite a bit but the fuel is so cheap that the cost of the road usage etc that they charge at the border still doesnt take the fuel up to or over the exorbitant prices in Europe

BTW - Uzbekistan is really enjoyable - Bukhara and Samarkand wonderful. Out of the whole 'bunch' of the Stans however, Tajikistan was my favourite mainly due to the fantastic ride over the Pamir mountains.

if you fancy a read or just want to see some pics visit our website diary here 2ridetheworld.com : diary
this is the link for Tajikistan and from this link you can go on to Uzbek - Turkmen - Iran etc...of select the dairy from each country individually.

we also have a fully downloadable GPS file with all of the relevant GPS points/borders/hotels/homestays/camping/etc
you can find this on the front page of our website at the bottom.

have fun planning and if you need more info re paperwork/visas/routes etc just email me - my email is on the contact page of our website.
cheers

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Lisa
www.2ridetheworld.com

In 2007 the price of fuel was ridiculously low, making the high entry fees a little less annoying, but I found fuel prices had gone up considerably (though are still low compared to Europe, though where isn't), though of course the road tax had not been reduced. It's just a big swizz to get foreign currency. Like $10 for a migration card which they don't always give you, $15 for disinfection (i.e. driving through some muddy water, or maybe nothing if the weather's dry), and $30 for insurance which I bet is utterly useless.

But then all this kind of shameless nonsense is part of the country's quirky appeal. Like the National Melon holiday

Daniel

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4.5 years around Eurasia in a Toyota Hilux|http://eurasiaoverland.wordpress.com/
Pictures Here|https://picasaweb.google.com/113619413612674951960

...and National Horse day.......:confused1:

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Lisa
www.2ridetheworld.com