I have driven the "railway" route to Choum by 4x4. It is mostly sand and low dunes as far as I can remember, hard work but rideable for experienced bikers with plenty of fuel and water. (Check out Austin Vince's film Mondo Sahara for his trip down through Mauri using pre dropped fuel caches)
There was no fuel station in Choum, but if you hang around someone will probably appear and offer you some nice high quality Algerian black market gas.
Ben Amira monolith is worth a stop 2/3 of the way across.
We didn't have time to go further south, but I was informed that the route south to Tidjikja is more severe (deeper, softer sand, more dunes, even less passing traffic...)
From Atar a side trip to Chinguetti and piste and dune trip to Ouadane or even El Ghallaouiya (if you have the fuel capacity) would be good. There is a Gandini guide with gps waypoints for this circuit of the Guelb er Richat - the Eye of Africa (which is so big you can't actually see it!)
The people of Mauritania will be glad to see tourists again. Things were pretty quiet even before Covid, but that might make them more pushy for a share of your wealth. Be patient with them - the mining wealth doesn't trickle down very far!
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