I will refrain from writing my usual lengthy description—not because the subject doesn’t merit or I’m suddenly incapable, but because the topic has been done previously by others more energetic, insightful, and/or experienced than I.

I rode in Thailand for just a week around a loose route based on the Mae Hong Son loop—note that what follows may or may not apply to elsewhere in the country. I decided to come to Thailand somewhat arbitrarily, drawn by cheap airfares and a desire to road test my new knee. I did no real research, and didn't plan more than a day in advance. This worked pretty well until i encountered a festival just as I returned to Chiang Mai, which jacked up lodging prices by a factor of ten or more. Caveat emptor, and all that implies.

I rented from Pop Big Bikes in Chiang Mai, a block from my hotel. With no reservation I had my choice of at least a couple of dozen “big bikes,” all the way up to liter-class Suzukis, Ducatis, and Hondas. I was out the door with helmet, a couple of crummy straps, and an unvented (but amply-sized) riding jacket within a half hour. I chose the familiar CRF 300. Cost was 1000 baht per day, about USD $30, paid in advance, with an extra 500 baht for as long as I wanted the jacket. Deposit for declining to leave my passport was USD $300 cash.The bike was in good repair, and gave no trouble whatsoever. There is a well-stocked (if somewhat chaotic) gear shop about 1 km away where I bought some cheap knee/shin armor

Pop Big Bikes was unresponsive to email or text—they favor WhatsApp—but answered their phone promptly in English. When I asked for a couple of extra days they said yes without hesitation. Note that there are other “big bike” specialists in Chang Mai, but i have no experience with any of them.

From the outset I expected something akin to Vietnam, where there is a huge motorbike scene catering to tourist rentals. Pop Big Bikes was my clue that this would be different. In Vietnam my rented CRF 250 was bigger than 98% of the other bikes I saw; on its CRF 300 cousin in Thailand I was actually smaller and slower than most of my fellow tourists and quite a few of the locals. i was quite ok with this—the bike would hit 100 kph when urged to do so, and was perfectly happy ambling along at 70 and 80. On most of the roads I was on, this was plenty fast enough.

Compared to riding in Vietnam, the density of population is much lower in Thailand while the road system seemed at least as good—most highways and rural roads are uncrowded, with ample signage and lane markings. Most notably, other drivers are uniformly respectful and considerate, even the big transport trucks, buses, and taxis. In fact, I had no significant near-death experiences at all, which I found quite salutary. Many of the main roads are gloriously uncrowded, and they wind up and down the mountains in well-engineered sweepers and steep switchbacks until you—or at least I—beg for mercy.

Random cautions:

The red laterite soil of which is found throughout the mountains becomes snot-slick when wet. Since it also seems to slide readily downhill, bringing whole hillsides along for the ride, I’d assume all of the above works differently during the rains. The current season remains hot and humid, with no rain, luxurious greenery everywhere, and only occasional haze-inducing burning fields. Get it while you can.

Google maps served me pretty well, maps.me much less so. However the former periodically suffered apparent hallucinations, on one occasion sending me far off-route down little forest tracks toward no place in particular. This might have involved a degree of user error, but whatever the cause it was only dumb luck which got me to my lodging long after dark that night. Something similar happened later, but by then I was more alert to nonsensical instructions and no crisis ensued.

Oddly similar, booking.com also worked reliably and well throughout…until it arbitrarily decided to change my search dates. This cost me some money, and will occasion a contested charge when I return home. I’ve been extra cautious since this happened, and have caught a repeat before it did any damage.

In case it’s not obvious, these are just loose observations. Input from those more knowledgeable—or merely opinionated—is always welcome.

Mark

I've had Google maps suffering from hallucinations too.

Once in North West Vietnam sending me to a road which was off road on a XR150.
Long story short .... I dropped the bike in mud and am glad I was not riding my own Tiger 800 which is a heavy bike! LOL
Turned around and made my way back onto the main road.

And another time was in Sumatra, Indonesia.
It routed me off road and I was suspicious as the road was going through oil palm plantations and I was on a Yamaha NMAX 155 scooter. I stopped at a house and asked and confirmed that I was on the long and wrong road. Turned around and then when I reached the main road I asked a local for confirmation I was on the right road.