From Nov-Dec 2015

Updates from last year's post


Marrakech - Gueliz (nr Mac D's)
Hotel Toulousain
Still OK for the Loc convenience. Good breakfast, lots of restos nearby. Great wifi right to the rooms.
250d pp for an old-style en suite (+ 50 for a 2nd person). None en suites also, plus newer suites. No parking.

Ouarzazate south
Hotel du Vallee, Easy to find and not so bad really but now 280d pp, secure bike parking. Heating/a-con rooms. wifi in reception.

Assaragh
Auberge des Etoiles - spacious dar; simple charme rustique, bikes in lock-up

Tazenacht
Hotel Bab Sahara, pizzas, secure courtyard parking, wifi-ish in the cafe.

Tamnougalte
Kasbah Itrane. Now this has a terrace delices

Tizi n’Test
Dar Elmouahidines, blue place on R203 to Tizi n’Test., 30km before pass.
200d hb. Small rooms, can get chilly, but handy. Destroyed by quake 2023


New places tried, noted or checked out

If you're in the upper Ait Bouguemez valley (south of Azilal) there are several rustic trekkers' gites in the string of villages that make up this commune.

Stopped in to check out the remote Gite de Cathedral, 10km piste from Tillouguite where the tar starts. 200d hb. Rustic as you'd expect but nowhere else for miles. Presumably popular with climbers. Several small 3-bed rooms plus a double and a 4. One bathroom/toilet. Big fireplace that hopefully gets lit in winter.

Fint, 12km SW or Ouarzazate
Terraces des Delices, Pass through a new suburb, turn off and a quick river crossing just before arrival. It's a terrace all right, but not as delices as I expected for the €30 hb in tiny rooms. Stayed again a few years later - switched the price on departure. Won't stay again.

Foum Zguid
Auberge Iriki - signed south end of Foum Zguid, on a side street.
Stayed here years ago but no all-night no barking dogs this time, just surprisingly good wifi if you're close to the cyber next door. 180d hb. Warm welcome, closed courtyard parking and usual good food.

Also asked about Hotel El Fayja by the Afriquia 15km north of FZ - was told 400d ro. Have since stayed here when stranded. Was OK odd place; no one stays here.

Marrakech, north on the N09, opposite the stadium
Le Relais de Marrakech
Lovely haven but I thought a bit expensive @ 35euro for a ropey tent room only. Good resto. I guess it's the easy parking and camping close to Marrakech that must make it popular. A bit of signposting from the north would not hurt and incorrectly positioned on Google maps (link above correct).

Ksar Tissergate - 8km north of Zagora, signed east off the road.
Hotel Kasbah Ziwana
Genuine mud-brick place accessed on foot along the cool tunnels of the part-ruined old kasbah overlooking Oued Draa palmerie. Great terrace lunch. 250d hb. Parking in a plot outside with guardian, but still a bit exposed for baggage bikes. Good option outside Zagora babylon.

Tissint
Kasbah Tissint, signed at the bend north end of town.
Yet another classy but deserted new hotel overlooking the oued. Caught them by surprise for a nice salad lunch, A/c rooms round a pool said to be 250 hb. wifi.
At least one cheapie in the town's main street, also.

Nr Zouweiat Ahansal, 75km SE of Azilal
Dar Ahansal, (1660m). Lovely place with exceptional attention to detail inside and out. 280d hb (but 100d single supplement). Only one there and an odd atmosphere of suspicion developed, especially from the owner. But food was great and not charged for teas and water, as other places of this calibre might do. Dongle wifi. Fire place in room but no firewood so chilly in December. Possibly another kasbah in the village too.

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail