Delhi, Paharganj area: Smyle Inn N 28 38 511 E 077 12 883; it is in a side alley of Main Bazar Road. Parking behind fence, reasonably safe. Friendly hotel. 1080 rupee.

Jaipur: Hotel Pearl Palace N 26 54 979 E 075 47 737. Safe parking in front of the hotel. Quiet street. Wifi. Rooftop restaurant. 1225 rupee. There is also a dorm. Recommended.

Nawalgarh, Shekhawati region: Ramesh Jangid's Tourist Pension N 27 51 139 E 075 15 838. Motorbike parked in the compound. Excellent vegetarian meals available. Wifi. 800 rupee (9 euro). Ramesh is a helpful guy and Nawalgarh is a nice town with several well maintained haveli's (and many more in crumbling state). Recommended.

Bikaner: Vijay Guesthouse N 28 01 138 E 073 21 844. Parking in the compound. Wifi. 650 rupee without airco, 1000 with airco. Home made meals available. Its on Jaipur Road, about 4 km from the town centre. Good place to stay but a way out of the centre.

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Voorbij de horizon / beyond the horizon: www.wonderfultravels.nl

The road between Butwal in Nepal and Varanasi in India is after Gorakhpur in terrible condition. As a result it will take two days to do this stretch. Luckily there is Rahi Tourist Bungalow in Gontha Doharighat; N 26 13 944 E 083 30 666. It is a comfortable place with parking facilities and a simple restaurant which serves a too. 800 rupees for an airconditioned room. Rahi Tourist Bungalow is owned by the Uttar Pradesh tourist organization which has similar facilities in Ghazipur and other places. *

Varanasi: Rahul Guesthouse, N 25 16 926 E 083 00 588. It is in a quiet neighbourhood in the southern part of the city. Parking at the compound behind the fence. I paid 2700 rupees for a comfortable room with riverview. It is a bit expensive but it is difficult to find accommodation with parking in Varanasi near the ghats. *

Khajuharo: hotel Surya, N 24 51 046 E 079 55 545, is a nice place to stay. Parking in the beautifull garden. 825 rupees. *

Ranthambhore National Park: Tiger Safari Resort, at the outskirts of Sawai Madhopur along the road to the park, is easily the best budget option for a tiger experience. It has a guarded parking place. Very friendly and helpful. I paid 1300 rupees per night. *

Jaipur: who doesn't know Pearl Palace Hotel in Jaipur (N 26 54 991 E 075 47 733)? Secure parking in front of the hotel. Rooms in various price categories. * *

Bundi: Annapurna Haveli, N 25 26 851 E 075 37 936. Nice place to stay, parking in the fenced courtyard behind the building. 1000 rupees per night. *

Aurangabad: Panchavati hotel, N 19 52 338 E 075 18 906. Friendly, good service, one of the best budget places I stayed in India. Well located to visit Ellora Caves. Parking on the premises. 920 rupees per night. *

Bharatpur: Royal Guesthouse, N 27 12 591 E 077 30 773. Very good and friendly. Home cooked food. 600 rupees per night. Parking on the compound. Ideally located to visit Keoladeo Park and Fatehpur Sikri. *

Note the following remarks with respect to accomodation in India.

1. An upper sheet is seldom provided. Most hotels and guesthouses provide just a blanket which is used by many people before you. So bring your own upper sheet.
2. Bedbugs are a wide spread problem in India. I never had so many encounters with bedbugs as in India, even in the more upmarket hotels and hostels. It is not a pleasure as I am quite allergic to the bite of these creatures. Luckily medical stores sell an insecticide which is quite poisonous to bedbugs and other insects. Take precautions: never leave your bags open and never lay your clothes and gear down on a bed or a sofa.

Enjoy India!

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Voorbij de horizon / beyond the horizon: www.wonderfultravels.nl

Kolkata: Sunflower Guesthouse, Royd Street; N 22 33 177 E 088 21 276. I paid 1380 rupees for a simple but ok room with ac and attached bathroom. It is a reasonable price for a guesthouse smack in the centre of town. Friendly staff. They insist you park your bike in the store room, two steps up and through a narrow door. But safe!

Baharampur: hotel Samrat. Driving from Kolkata to Darjeeling (or from Darjeeling to Kolkata) hotel Samrat in Baharampur, just south of Murshridabad, is an excellent option to stay over for the night. Coming from Kolkata it is a bright yellow building on your right handside, just before the centre of Baharampur. From the dusty road to Samrat is as from hell to paradise. The hotel has a nicely manicured lawn and a fenced parking lot. Staff is friendly and helpful. I got a very good room ("new room" they said) with ac, tv, bathroom for just 900 rupees. Samrat has a restaurant which is good but not unforgettable and you can get plenty of there. Hotel Samrat belongs to the best places I have stayed in India. It is a pity that Baharampur is just a dusty town. Beware: there are not that many nice places to stay between Kolkata and Shiliburi!

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Voorbij de horizon / beyond the horizon: www.wonderfultravels.nl