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Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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  #1  
Old 4 Sep 2010
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BMW 650 Year Suggesitons
I plan to purchase two low mileage 650s for a Minnesota - Argentina trip with my son. I'm considering bikes from 1999-2008. Which of these model years would be best to purchase and avoid in terms of reliability?

Thanks!
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Old 4 Sep 2010
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My partner and I just bought a couple of F650 singles and rode 5,000 miles through the US ('05 and and '06 lowered). I can thoroughly recommend them.

The '06 had 27,000 miles at the end and still ran like a new bike. (Its now sold but if you're interested I still have the '05 available in California with about 12,000m on the clock.)

Literally, we didn't have a single mechanical thing go wrong with them. I adjusted the new chains once and didn't need to adjust shocks or brakes or anything else. They ran on all fuels but can't vouch for the higher ethanol content used in southern america.

We travelled from sealevel to a few high passes through the Rockies and again neither missed a beat. We turned ABS off for some dirt road riding and again no issues with braking.

I'd recommend them for a long overland trip although I'd personally prefer a twin.
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Old 5 Sep 2010
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The rule is usually the latest version.

In this case check for the year with the fork change which I think is 03 and later. Also get the twin spark model which is meant have solved the surging issues.

Keep it light with soft luggage, protect your forks with neoprene fork gaiters, stick some foam between the radiator and frame and lube all non-sealed bearings (SHB, swingarm, etc.).
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Old 5 Sep 2010
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Carry a water pump kit .

The only real differences are the switch to FI in 2000/2001 and the final fixes on this about 2003. Read the chain gang FAQ and buy as new as you can, or after the PO has done the various fixes.

A question if I may. If you are looking at bikes you know little about why are you looking for a specific type? These BMW badged Aprillias are in my experience flawed (I owned two, broke the last one in Morocco), so if you need to learn a new type why not start with a DR/XT/KLR that doesn't have the waterpump and VR issues, has better tyre choice, doesn't have the BMW badge premium etc? The badge means nothing when the waterpump fails in the middle of nowhere or the forks snap or the rims are bashed or the VR fries.

Andy
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Old 5 Sep 2010
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Oh yeah. Keep the VR cool and mount a voltage monitor. I haven't had any problems with mine in + 35 degree heat in city traffic with the fan blowing all the time. But over draw the electrical system and block air flow to the VR and it will go. BM learned this lesson and now places it on the side of the motor. This is location number 3 for them.
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Old 6 Sep 2010
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I'd forgotten the fan. The temp switch is mounted on it's side in such a way that the contact plates can turn and jam if you give it more vibration than the Berlin ring road . Typical Rotax BMW, it's designed to be mounted vertically so gravity is even on the plate, but they couldn't be bothered to fit an elbow. You want to either fit the elbow or fit a light to tell you the fan is running. If the switch does fail, the wires pull off and will reach the horn button. No horn, but the chance to cool the engine if you end up stuck at low speeds. I did about 3000 miles like that!

Andy
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Old 7 Sep 2010
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That's a bit harsh........



They don't break down all the time.


Really, most I see that have either question or have issues are things that the owner should have known about and/ or should have done something about. Every bike has issues, we all know it. Most can be provented. We can all accept that no bike is perfect. All you have to do is spend enough time on Advrider to see them all roll in.
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