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23 Oct 2003
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Guatamala - before or after elections?
I am currently in Palenque, Chiapás and about to head up into the Yukutan Peninsula. The idea was to enter Belize from Yukutan then ride down through Northern Guatamala. I am travelling alone.
This will put me in Guatamala immediately after the election and although I'd hate to miss the Yukutan and Belize I am wondering if it might be more sensible to get into and through Gutatmala now...
However... someone also suggested that the lead up to the election was going to be worse. I have no idea. Any thoughts anyone?
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23 Oct 2003
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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Hi Ian,
I am currently in Punta Gorda, Belize and will head into Guatemala Saturday 25-Oct. But I am having the same problem.
I still plan to ride to Lake Atiklan and stay there for a 2 weeks Spanish School. Right around the elections....
Regards,
Steffen
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23 Oct 2003
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Danbury CT USA
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Because Guatemala is my favorite country, I have been following this election/political situation for some time. My Espanol is mediocre so my ability to read Guatemalan news reports can be rated as serviceable but not perfect.
People in the U.S. are in a tizzy because Rios Montt is running for President. Montt was a military general in 1980 and overthrew the civilian government at that time. He then presided over two years of vicious mass murders, particularly in the small Maya villages in the mountains, in an attempt to intimidate people into not supporting other military groups, groups which tended to seek refuge in some of these mountain villages.
Montt has remained politically active and has been president of the federal legislature for several years, as a legitimately elected legislator.
Federal law, which was probably written with Montt in mind, prohibited those involved in a previous coup from running for executive branch president. However, the president of the legislature was able to get this law changed. Oh, I forgot we were talking about the same person.
The polls say that Montt is in a weak third place, carrying about 12% of the vote. There is some concern that he may do better than the polls suggest, because he is stronger in the mountain villages which may not be fully represented in the polls. Yes, the mountain villages that his administration terrorized twenty years ago may be his strongest base of support. As best I can determine, this ironic situation is based on his tendency to couch his rhetoric in Christian phrases and ideologies which appeal to many religious Maya.
I have not come up with any info suggesting that Montt has strong support in the military as he obviously did when he was a general twenty years ago. So I have not seen any info that would concern me as far as another Montt coup.
Based on what I have read, I would say the most likely outcome is that Montt is going to lose the election and that will be that.
As best I can tell from here (USA), most Guatemalan people are not that concerned about the Montt candidacy, and I would not let it stop me from travelling there. I am planning to go back this winter.
Interestingly, the person who is in second place in the presidential polls (way ahead of Montt), is the cousin of one of my riding buddies here in New England (an "A" enduro rider who grew up in Guatemala).
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26 Oct 2003
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Hi,
I went through Belize and Guatemala a few weeks ago (currently at Honduras/Nicaragua border).
First, in Belize you have to pay an exit tax of $18 US and they require that you buy insurance at $9/day.
The border between Belize and Guatemala is straightforward and takes about 1.5 hours, give or take. You pay 40 quetzals for the bike, nothing else. The first 20km from the border at Melchior Mencos is gravel and not asphalt as on the map. You'll find out many more of these so called paved roads in Guatemala.
I was 1 month in Guatemala and even though you can sense the election fever, I didn't feel unsafe at any times, even in Zona 1 in Guatemala city. The UN still has a presence in Guatemala and you'll see their jeeps. There is also a EU presence as observers of the election process. Last time I checked, the candidate who is leading the polls is Berger, who was mayor of Guatemala city.
Furthermore, the guatemalan youth, through the catholic church is participating as observers also to oversee a fair election.
If you are using the ITM map to Central America, their accuracy lacks a lot to be desired. There is a new road west of Rio Dulce that goes to El Estor. After the first 20km, it´s all dirt road until you reach Tactic. It's doable, though in some parts there are deep ruts in the road and some small river crossings (10 inches deep max). El Estor is probably the cheapest place in Guatemala along with San Pedro La Laguna by lake Atitlan. On the maps, there is a road from Santiago Atitlan to San Pedro. DO NOT USE THIS ROAD. It's a bad dirt road, very steep and highly slippery with sand. I talk from experience and destroyed one radiator there. There is a new road of the main highway (Panam) at km 148 or 147. It's a turnoff in a corner.
The road is all paved and very, very twisty with 360 turns.
If you go to Antigua, there is a small hotel called Yellow House. It's at number 1 Calle #24. There is no sign, but a garage door. You may park a bike inside. More than one is probably not possible.
In Guatemala city you can get Bridgestone tires at FPK in Zona 9. It's close to Yamaha and Honda. BMW is in Zona 4 on 6 Avenida. If you need to do some work, drop by at Moto Punto 4Av 13 calle Zona 9. Tell the owner about me, Nelson. If you want to meet riders, go to the mirador on the Panam coming from Mexico about 20k from Guatemala city on Wednesday or Thursday mornings (before 9:30am). A bunch of riders meet there.
If you are going through El Salvador, be prepared to spend 4 hours at the border. Into Honduras at El Amatillo, you have to pay $40 US to get the bike in.
Check my webpage for details on the border crossings
http://nelson_p_oliveira.tripod.com/...oteofdustblog/
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27 Oct 2003
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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Hola Ian!
I'm still in Guatemala and the first elections will be on the 9.of November, it would be a wonder if anyone reaches more than 50%! So there will be a second one as well, i am not sure but i think it's on the 23. of January! So don't worry at all it's just getting interesting after the first round!
Enjoy your time in Guatemala, it's a great country!
Good Luck, Appie!
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27 Oct 2003
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thanks guys.. all useful info.. I decided to head via the Yukutan to Belize then into Guatamala.
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29 Oct 2003
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I wanted to backtrack a bit from my previous semi-rosy report due to the latest developments. Four reporters from the national newspaper Prensa Libre are being held by about 500 former paramilitary members/supporters near Huehuetenango. The former soldiers are demanding back pay and/or more back pay than they have already received. They are in a stand-off with police.
Today's Prensa Libre alleges that Rios Montt's party (FRG) is responsible for the ex-paramilitary action. It cites "independant analysts" as saying that FRG sees the paper as a political enemy to be defeated. Prensa Libre also alleges that as part of their election strategy, FRG has used gangs to create chaos in the capitol, and is buying votes in the mountain villages.
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29 Oct 2003
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Hi,
I am currently in Antigua. I feel perfectly save here. But I also decided against using back-country roads or ride up into the highlands. On my way down from Belize 3 days ago I didn't encounter any problems.
I maybe even stay over the elections it depends on how fast learn Spanish in school....
CU on the road.
Steffen
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1 Nov 2003
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I am at the moment in Flores, just outside Tikal and have ridden here over a three day period from the border crossing at Mesilla. I have ridden dirt roads that by the locals reaction see very little tourist traffic. The response I have had has always been positive and friendly. I have seen a lot of election activity in even the smallest villages but this has in no way been threatening to me. I heard the night before i was going to cross the border that there had been violence and shootings in relation to the election (this was in the mexican town of Comitan)Maybee, but not where I have been. My advice is travel through guatemala, the people have made a big effort to be real friendly to me regardless of the fact my spanish is very wanting to say the least.
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