Hey everyone,

The title of my post sums it all up :-)
How many possible routes are there ( cycling, if that matters ) from any coastal point north in the South American continent ( Guyana/Suriname/French Guiana and northern Brazil ) down to Bolivia or Paraguay ?
Not counting Venezuela, although I know it is an option, too.
And weather-wise what would be the best season to cross the Amazonian forest ?


L.

Taking into account permutations and combinations, there are hundreds, if not thousands. If you can narrow down the question you may get some answers.

Best time for the Amazon basin - June to November.

Alright then !

Where can I cross into Brazil ( heading south, by road ) from either French Guiana, Suriname or Guyana ?

And from there what are my options for riding south to Bolivia, taking in the Amazon basin ?

L.

The answer to your first question is pretty obvious on any map: there is one route south from French Guiana, and another south from Guyana. That's it. Both were partially paved, partially dirt, and occasionally quite tiresome and muddy last I was there more than 10 years ago. I hung with some bicyclists for a bit, and they told me they were having a rough time of it--and I later heard that one of them had contracted dengue in the Guianas. But truckdrivers told me both roads used to be much, much worse, so maybe by now they're much, much better.

"Taking in the Amazon Basin" is really best done by boat, not road. If you head for Belem, you'll spend at least a day on a boat no matter what route you choose. I'll leave it to others more knowledgeable than I to give you some specifics.

You might still find it useful to narrow the field some more. It's unlikely anyone will write you a Brazil to Bolivia guidebook, and there are quite a few options.

Hope that's helpful.

Mark

Hey Mark,

That is helpful.

A friend of mine rode Ushuaia to Caracas some years ( 15 ? ) ago. He crossed into Brazil from Bolivia and then headed north to Porto Velho where he took the boat to Manaus. He resumed riding from there.
At the time that PV-Manaus stretch was considered very difficult, even for hardcore cyclists. Or maybe he was there at the wrong time of year, I don't recall. But anyways he decided to hop on the boat.


The road through Guyana also looks quite challenging.

L.

Hi levelo,

It sounds like you want to ride from the Guyanas to Bolivia, through Brazil.

The road from Georgetown to Lethem, Guyana, isn't bad if traveled during the dry season. I rode north from Lethem in early November 2012 and encountered only a few puddles that spanned the width of the road. Visit my lame blog post here: https://www.petersride.com/2012/11/goin-to-guyana.html

For planning purposes, I recommend checking annual rainfall for Guyana on various websites. Here is an example for Lethem, Guyana

Once reaching Lethem cross the frontier into Brazil and head for Boa Vista, then continue south to Manaus. From there take BR-319 to Humaitá. The 300-400 mile stretch of road has minimal services. I don't believe there are any hotels or gas stations. That doesn't mean you can't find a bed but will need to ask around. Some riders shared stories of sleeping on the loading docks of cell phone towers. Gas may be purchased in roadside restaurants, typically out of a barrel or from farmers. Keep in mind, BR-319 is largely packed clay until you reach Humaitá. By reviewing Google Maps, it looks like the road south of Humaitá to Porto Velho is paved. I understand the best (driest) time of year to ride BR-319 is July/August. If you try to take on BR-319 during periods of significant rain, you'll be telling a mud story that is hundreds of miles long.

As documented in his series, Tough Rides, Ryan Pyle seeks the hard way. He rode BR-319 during the rainy season. I think the timing makes his adventure dramatic and worthy of the series title, so he intentionally picked the worst time of year. It is doubtful you want to do the same, I don't! =)



I heard there is a ferry on the Madeira River, which runs parallel to BR-319, but where the services start on the north end is not known to me. I won't take a boat when a road is available.

There are several options for entering northern or northeastern Bolivia from Brazil, but I have no experience or advice. Someone else here on the HUBB might be able to give a recommendation.

I am planning to ride BR-319 in early August 2023. If I see you headed south, I'll be sure to stop and chat with you. What are your overall plans?

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hi Levelo, I would recommend the coastal route, go to the BR 101 south of Osorno towards Sao José do Norte. Very quiet. Then take the ferry to Rio Grande and on towards Chui/Chuy the border with Uruguay. By far the most quiet route.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-F415F met Tapatalk

Hola Marker,

I did just that.
This wasn't my prefered route but the massive flooding in Rio Grande do Sul ruled all the other options out. I got trapped in the torrential rains a couple of times, Sao José do Norte and Rio Grande were partly under water but the ferry was still operating the day I crossed ( the level of the laguna rose sharply when I was there ).
The coastal route was quiet indeed but still wet and very windy.

I crossed into Uruguay at Chuy, then made my way to Montevideo and Colonia where I took the ferry to Buenos Aires.
I thoroughly enjoyed riding there. Better roads, less traffic and more considerate drivers.
And the cheese rocks !

L.

levlo!

Welcome to Argentina!

Food and Drink
I found the quality of meat raised considerably over the beef in Brazil. If you are a meat eater, enjoy. If you haven't already discovered it, Argentines love a good Milanesa sandwich, and wine and cheese of course. I bought wine in stores and directly from vineyards. Traveling alone, the problem was finishing a whole bottle by myself...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milanesa

Money, money, money...
If you have crisp USD bills (possibly EUROS) you should be able to get as much as 30% more by trading privately or informally (Blue Dollar, Dólar Blue, Informal Dollar, Unofficial Dollar, Parallel Dollar) over the official bank rate. The rates change daily and have fluctuated greatly in the past few months. To trade privately, ask around, at hotels and stores, if anyone is buying. In tourist areas of some cities, you may encounter cambo guys on the street. In October 2023, I heard cambo guys were chased out of Buenos Aires, but ran into them in Bariloche. Go figure.

If you have a credit card issued outside of Argentina you should get somewhere between the bank rate and the informal or private rate. The credit card advantage over the bank rate is supported by an Argentine government "Foreign Tourist Dollar" (also Tourist Dollar, Foreign Tourist Dollar, Dólar Turista.)

You can find the daily rates for the above and more here:
https://bluedollar.net/
https://bluedollar.net/tourist-dollar-rate/

Lodging Resource
Sadly, I learned about this list/map of pousadas after my trip was over. I discovered two by way of recommendations given by friends. I believe some of the pousadas are motorcycle clubhouses. There may be a room with a bed or a space to camp. Amenities such as shower, wifi, and kitchen, surely vary by pousadas. Chances are you will be warmly welcomed by one person or the whole club.

Refugios Motoviajeros AR - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...98&usp=sharing

I stayed at these pousadas (and wish I had this map above when I was traveling!)

La Posta Del Viajero En Moto
Mendoza 685, Azul, Provincia de Buenos Aires, Argentina
+54 9 2281 43-0865
Jorge La Posta in my mind is a legend. He has been hosting riders for 30 years! Jorge is a mechanic, artist, music lover, and all-around great guy. He only asks for a donation. Give what you can.

Motoposada los Coyotes in Puerto Madryn
Celular 02804979256 . Colón 1205, U9120 Puerto Madryn, Chubut.
A family home with a few extra rooms that are available for riders. Lovely people. They told me where I could see whales from the beach -- and I did!

What is your plan now? Will you brave the cold and power through the distance to Tierra del Fuego?

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride

Hi Peter, Hi everyone,

I flew back " home " from Argentina one month ago.
I was just beat and the cost of having my winter gear sent to me was more than the airfare
I will spend the summer here in Europe ( relaxing & making a few bucks ) while the bicycle is stored at a carpenter's workshop in Buenos Aires during my absence. I plan to resume my ride south to and through Patagonia in mid-September or so.

Cambio guys were very conspicuous on Florida St. in BA when I was there !

Thanks for your lodging advice and the list/map of posadas. Do you think the hosts would mind a cyclist ?

Levelo.

Hola Levelo!

Many adventurers take a break and then return later to continue their journey. Grant & Susan Johnson, the owners of Horizons Unlimited rode around the world, in segments. They would travel for as long as the money lasted, return home to make money, and then pick up where they left off.

Riding south in Argentina at this time of year is cold, mixed with snow, and more cold. Wait a few months until the weather becomes hospitable and you have built up cash reserves. I don't enjoy extended travel on a shoestring; to each their own.

I was in Buenos Aires in 2023, three weeks before the elections and was told by a friend who works for the Argentine government, that the cambio guys were chased away. It is interesting to note the cambio guys have returned to the streets and goes to show that laws and policies change all the time in South America.

Cheers,

__________________
Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride