More on the Salar de Uyuni and the Lagunas Route
Panny, like David said,
None of the Lagunas route is hardcore, except for the altitude. But I would caution that if riders are scared of deep sand it might not be for them. But most inexperienced riders seem to simply peddle through the deep stuff, dragging their feet, which is slow, and a good way to break an ankle, but doable.
Some people have told me it was the hardest riding they have ever done, but I reckon that's due to inexperience. If youre a desert rider, nothing on the route is even remotely technical or difficult, except for the altitude. I had a blast on this route and rode like a complete hooligan. If youre a pavement or graded dirt road only rider, this could be challenging for you. If you first learn how to properly ride sand, and get comfortable riding it, the route will be much more enjoyable for sure.
This is the typical sand, more like sand mixed with small gravel, not even close to the the deepest on the route, but typical of what you will encounter.
This needs no introduction. A unique spot on the planet. After visiting the Islands Incahuasi and Pescado and a night on the salar, I headed directly south on the salar to drop into the Lagunas route. At least one night on the salar is a must do. Better would be several nights and explore all the various islands. Careful exploring some of the smaller islands as they can be inhabited by shit piles of fire ants.
Incahuasi is the main island in the middle of the salar. People live there. There is a small store there, you can buy some snacks and all the Cruiser tours stop there. About 10 miles to the northwest is another island (visible from Incahuasi) called Isla Pescado. That is a much more mellow place to camp and kill some time. You might see a couple other overlanders there, but thats about it.
In the above photo I am looking from Incahuasi to the north. That volcano you see in the photo is on the north end of the salar, and is visible almost everywhere on the salar. So, if you get disoriented, look for that volcano, and that will be the north end of the salar. Its a good landmark to know.
The southern exit off the salar. It always wet and muddy around the edges of the salar so its a good idea to use the tracks to find the proper exits.
Another, much smaller salar. Awesome.
After this sign, stay right (IIRC) to get to aduana to check the bike out of Bolivia then back track to the main road when leaving aduana, or try a pretty scenic off-road route through the mountains that has some serious hill climbs and steep descents.
Take deep breaths. LOL! Its a damned good idea to be well acclimated to the altitude before taking off on this route or you will, for sure, be miserable.
And enjoy the view and the riding because its hands down some of the best on the continent, and my favorite section of all the Americas. Its like riding on Mars.
Once I got to SPdA, I almost turned back to do it again via some different tracks, but that will wait until next time. There are alot of variations to the main tracks, some more interesting than others, so you have lots of options.
Welcome to Mars. Its hard to breath, its butt freezing cold, and its blowing like hell.
The washboard on the some of the main tracks can be downright brutal. However its much nicer just to get a few meters off the tracks into the deep sand/gravel since its a nice and smooth ride for the most part.
Martian Flamingos.
I did portions of the Lagunas route, then got off of it in various places and was able to get really out there, away from the tours, away from everything, properly off-road. I did this solo and it was a little disconcerting because if you get off of the main tour route and something goes wrong with you or the bike, you are in trouble for sure. Several places, miles off the proper tour route, I stopped, looked around, and realized if something went wrong, it would be a very, very long time before anyone came by, if ever.
However, if you are solo and stay on the tour route or close to it and something goes wrong, someone will probably be coming by within a couple of hours, or the next day for sure, so you will be fine.
Damn David, sorry to hear about getting tangled up with Land Cruiser. Yeah, those pendejo drivers are crazy and dont give a shit about running you off the road, actually, IMO, they try to run you off the road and laugh about it. Fortunately for me, in the deep stuff or rocky stuff, on the KTM, I was a helluva a lot faster than them, but in the wide open I would be pushing 100 mph/160 kph in the gravel to get away from them, which for me is really pushing it on the big bike. Be aware of these assholes, they dont give a shit.
Heal up soon amigo, I bet you have a heck of a story to tell......
I was flying by the Cruisers in this section, but sometimes they tried to run me into the rocks when is was passing them, assholes.
It can be very cold as well. Temps varied from 10C to -23C, depending on altitude and time of day when I was there. Bring your sunblock too. You can burn lobster red within minutes of taking off your helmet/gloves.
Also be prepared for brutal Patagonia-like wind from at least August through October. That is salt blowing off a lake in the distance. I reckon it was blowing about 60 mph in the afternoon this day.
I could out run the bastards in sections like this but I was pushing 90 to 100 MPH and was at the edge of control. But, hitting a section of deep sand, or babyheads at that speed would be painful to say the least.
It was blowing pretty good at Arbol de Piedra as well. I took off my helmet but the wind was blowing gravel in my face.
More Martian landscape.
To make this route really fun, ride fast, take lots of chances. Hell, what could go wrong? LOL!
This is a unique place on the planet and is not to be missed. I rode around 40,000 miles and over a year in South America and this lonely stretch of 400 miles in Bolivia was the highlight of my trip, no contest.
Enjoy Bolivia, its epic and I wish I could go back right now!