Planning to buy a 2010 klr with 40.000km
Any one know where i can replace the original doohickey(hasn't been touched)
And generally check the bike before buying? Compression values and so on?

So, you have the "new" generation KLR, started in 2008. The Doo Hickey was improved in '08 but still is not perfect, but from what I've heard, it's far less likely to fail like the 1st generation KLR. (I owned a '98) At 30K km you may not really need do anything regards the DooHickey.

Best to go over to KLR.net forum, check in and ask for help from the experts, get opinions on DooHickey and ask HOW MANY documented failures have happened on 2nd generation KLR. I'm guessing VERY FEW. So, current one is not perfect but less likely to fail.

Biggest known issue with 2nd generation KLR is oil use. Many use a lot of oil, some just use "some", but fact is, even the new ones today use some oil. So keep your eye on oil level ... check daily if riding hard. Never let it get low.

At just 30K km. it' unlikely the bike will have any fatal engine issues save mentioned oil use. Compression should be fine, but you will want to do a valve clearance check if it's never been done. Probably needs no adjustment ... but check it if you can. (they are shim under bucket type so a bit of a PITA as radiator must come off for access)

If your bike smokes like a chimney under hard acceleration or when shutting off throttle after high revs (on the overrun coast down), then could be an issue, but, IMO, VERY unlikely.

The cooling fans sometimes fail and there are few other "Gotchas" to look out for ... best answered by the experts over on KLR.net. It's been years since I worked on KLR's, and they were the 1st generation ones. Two friends own 2nd generation KLR's ... both now up over 50K miles. Trouble free ... save some oil use.

Prep for travel is pretty much always the same for most bikes:
1. Ideally, a new DID X ring chain and new Sprockets (OEM or JT if possible), cheap Chinese copies are a liability if you plan on big miles. An O ring chain would do, but X ring will last 30% longer. Buy DID, RK or EK if possible. They are the best.

2. New Battery unless your current one is a QUALITY one less than a year old.

3. Better headlight bulb. I like the inexpensive HID ones. LED one is good too. My HID kit was just $25 from DDM Tuning.com MORE light, draws less current.

4. New Tires, and plenty of spare inner tubes, quality ones, not crap ones. Patch kit, Rubber Cement (several FRESH tubes)
I carry 3 and buy a new one as soon as one is ruined. Patches won't hold, so spare tubes A MUST.

5. Check the seat. If stock, you may consider a butt pad of some kind.

6. Tool Kit - This is important. Build a kit specific to your KLR. Include tire irons.
Use only tools you NEED to work on the KLR. Don't pack in a bunch of heavy crap you can't use.

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You could do lots more but those are the basics for me.

Spares: One spare spark plug, Tubes, Patch kit, clutch and brake levers, spare rear brake pads. Check KLR.net for other ideas. Elec, VOM meter, fuses, no solder connectors, wire.

Thanks! Great info and advice! The klr im looking into burns around 0.5l every 1500km. Thats what the current owner said. Sounds ok?

Hello Guy29,
I covered over 130k kl on my 2003 KLR in the Americas, if I keep my speed down below 120 klmh , oil usage was minimal. Back shock was an issue, suggest replacing or at least upgrading spring. Run spare clutch cable along existing cable. Front fork seals renewed twice. Valve clearance checked at 30000 and at about 80000, still ok. Carby flooded a couple of times, cleared by shutting fuel off (pinch delivery hose) then remove hose at fuel tap and blow air into carb inlet.
Loved that bike.
Regards Ben.

Go on, I'll ask.

What is the "doo hickey" ?

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http://www.ytc1.co.uk

Doo Hickey, engine balance chain tension device.