I'm not sure about travel north or east of Mopti since the fighting in eastern Mali started last week, but tourists were certainly being allowed to go overland to the Festival au Désert in Timbuktu. As for Mac's Refuge, sadly, it's no more. I don't know the details, but Mac left some time ago - I think probably in 2010 if not earlier. I passed through Sévare in October 2011 and asked about it from the owner of the Sleeping Camel who I was travelling with.
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