This... I've travelled west Africa for about 8 months now and haven't paid once. If you're doing everything legitimately you shouldn't have to, and you shouldn't as it sets a terrible standard.

I generally carry only local currency and maybe a touch of US/Euro. If you're in west Africa the CFA is as good as the Euro; even in non-CFA countries. Temporary import taxes at the borders are the only thing you really need cash for, and they are never too expensive.

Also, if you're thinking of breakdowns, there is almost always a mechanic within 100km (usually every village) and they are dirt cheap.

Good to see the anti bribe comments, I agree very strongly. Get your paperwork in order, be patient and polite and you'll be on you way in a few minutes.

For West Africa it is good to change Euros, as the CFA rate at least is set against the Euro, so it removes most of the stress out of money changing as the rate never changes and everybody knows it.

But really you need US Dollars (there and) everywhere else, as many visas (if you continue down the west coast) require payment in US Dollars for example. In Sudan there are no ATM's, so you must bring all your spending money in as cash, some mechanics or services require (or request ) payment in dollars, and anywhere with a strong black market for dollars means you can save a lot of money. When I was in Sudan the official bank rate was about 2.5, the bm rate about 5.6.

In my 3 year west/east coast trip I used about $3,000 and about 3,000 Euros in cash. I always kept a fair pile of cash on me in case my engine exploded for example (4x4) in a remote place and you need some cash available to sort it all out. You might need some medical help or something as well. Also if you cause an accident it is good to have a few hundred within easy reach to hopefully sort it out really quickly on the side of the road...

BUT, heres the big change in Africa - there are now ATM's pretty much in every medium sized town, usually run off the mobile phone network, mostly only taking VISA (not mc). So in my whole trip through 45 countries I only ever changed money at the border about 3 times, because I knew the first town had an atm or two. So much of the border bullshit has been removed if you plan and research money wise.

Just remember to have a backup plan in case the atm is not working - don't arrive with an empty tank, no food and complain when the atm isn't working, it's not Europe ;-)

Keep a few notes from each country as a souvenir, spend any remaining at the last petrol station so you have some fuel (even if its cheaper in the next country - will there be any available?) and a days food at least.

Have at least two different visa cards from different banks, and the phone numbers in case they block your card as being suspicious activity (in Nigeria for example).

For me this worked really well and I had no money changing problems on my whole trip.

ATM's in the first instance, stash of dollars and euros for visas etc, emergencies and black markets.

Notes: Clean and crisp $50 and $100 bills mostly, dated after 2006(?). Some countries won't accept dirty or folded notes, some will give you a lesser rate. For Euros I think 50 Euros notes are the best, again clean and crisp.
And then about $200 in 20's and 10's.

Please don't start with the attitude that you should be paying bribes. We have driven 90,000km through 27 countries in 3 1/2 years in Africa & haven't paid a SINGLE bribe.

You need to be patient, friendly, open & gently persistent - with that you can get through most situations without paying. (I'm not saying ALL situations, but so far we have been successful). The paying of bribes just perpetuates the problem.

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Appreciate all the advice, especially @roamingyak.org.

I was obviously under the impression that the occasional bribe was standard practice, but I'm quite happy to hear that I was wrong, as it's really not something I'm keen on.

Almost ready to head into Morocco!!

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But generally speaking, you don't have to knowingly pay anything. Nobody will directly ask you for a "bribe" by the way. It's usually indirectly - 'do you have a small gift for me' or by the invention of a problem where the solution is you pay somebody to fix it, who then hands most of the money to the policeman concerned etc.

Just politely ignore requests with a dumb smile, pretend you don't understand, ask distracting questions "this is the way to Yaounde yes?" "how is Samuel Eto? does his family live around here? What about your family, are they good? How many kids do you have?" and generally be ultra polite and smiley in a slightly stupid way and away you go.

Africans are generally ultra positive happy people, even underneath a police uniform - connect to that and all will be well.

Learning local languages helps and at checkpoints start the conversation with local greetings, control the conversation by giving your basic details then by asking distracting friendly questions and then finish the conversation with some friendly goodbyes and enthusiastic handshakes etc.

Generally, 80% of the time they are friendly and interested in you as a person. Usually when they avoid eye contact and won't talk with you they cause problems.

Photocopy everything and only show the photocopies - amazing how 99% of the time they accept them!

All vague generalisations! ;-)

Regarding West Africa

The only times I've been paying out bribes are at the border where the officer insists a fee is owed for some stamp (or exit tax). There is no way of knowing (ask others in the queue but they will most likely back up the police) if it is legitimate or not so I end up paying - usually to discover on line that I have been skanked.

Otherwise, when an officer asks for money at a checkpoint my refusal is always accepted and I am waved on.

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On the issue of ATM's. There are ATM's in most perhaps but not all countries.

I can say for certain that a visit to Sierra Leone or Guinea will require you to bring the cash with you or utilize Western Union or something similar. There are NO ATM's in those two countries for sure that will allow you to access a foreign account.