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Lake Tanganyika- Mbala to Kigoma AKA The Road from Hell Lake Tanganyika- Mbala to Kigoma AKA The Road from Hell
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Photo by Stefan Thiel of Mark Hammond crossing a river in NW Mongolia

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Stefan Thiel, of
Mark Hammond crossing
a river in NW Mongolia



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  #1  
Old 12 Jan 2015
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Lake Tanganyika- Mbala to Kigoma AKA The Road from Hell
Anyone tackled this road - Mbala to Kigoma via Sumbawanga and Mpanda recently? I understand it was in poor condition until recently, but they may have fixed it up over the last year or so. I plan to try it around late May.

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Old 12 Jan 2015
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Definitely not the road to hell
We drove from Kigoma to Mbala in June 2014. Whilst this road might have a few challenges in the rain, it is just another African road with nothing exceptional. Your Google maps is way out on timings, however. We drove from Jakobsen's Beach campsite near Kigoma to Katavi in 8 hours. This was in a Land Rover Defender. It is tarmac from Kigoma to Uvinza, and then dirt down to near Mpanda, but the Chinese are working on some sections near Mpanda. The route from Kigoma to Katavi is remote, but beautiful winding at times through lovely limestone forested ridges. We spent a few nights in Katavi, then to Lakeshore Lodge at Kipili (which is not to be missed - lovely in every way). Then from Kipili to Sumbawanga took 3 hours. Sumbawanga to the border crossing at Kasesha took just over 2 hours. From Kasesha border crossing to Mbala (where you do Zambian immigration) took 1 hour. You then need to go down to Mpulungu to clear Customs and this was a good Tarmac road and took less than an hour.

In summary:

Kigoma to Mpanda 6 hours 20
Mpanda to Katavi 1 hour
Katavi to Kipili 4 hrs 40
Kipili to Sumbawanga 3 hours
Sumbawanga to border 2 hours 15
Border to Mbala 1 hour
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Old 17 Jan 2015
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Many thanks for the info. I also decided to stop at Kipili- too good to miss I thought! Doesn't surprise me that Google is miles out- I'm using T4A and Basecamp to plan my route and am being as conservative as I can with the daily mileage
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Old 17 Nov 2015
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Hi reggie3cl

How did you find these roads? Planning this route July 2016 - do you think this is ok solo on a motorbike now?

Cheers
Andy
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Old 18 Nov 2015
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Hi Andy

We had to change our itinerary somewhat so only got as far as Kipili in the end- stayed at Lakeshore Lodge (camping) very nice, especially for the NGOs who were having some R&R there in the luxury units...

I was quite glad we came through the border at Tunduma from Zambia (a bit mad, but fun) because I think the road from Mbala would have been a mission on the GS with all the gear.

The road from Tunduma to Sumbawanga is pristine tarmac, however north of Sumbawanga they are redoing the road so in the usual way you are diverted off to bump your way past people's front doors on the old road. This was OK, but could be tricky in the wet I suppose.

Anyway, from what I saw (and rode) it would be absolutely fine on a solo but as noted above, it's a bit slow going.
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Old 18 Nov 2015
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Lake Tanganyika- Mbala to Kigoma AKA The Road from Hell
Thanks Reggie, thats really helpful.

I am actually coming from Malawi via Mbeya so sounds like I'll miss the worst of it. Especially looking forward to Kipili.

Interested to see the NGOs in action - in doing my prep i can see where their presence is distorting the natural market price.

I have partly funded a couple of projects in Africa and am planning to visit on route to see whether i've spent my money wisely.....

Cheers
Andy

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Old 18 Nov 2015
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Ah, we went back to Sumbawanga from Kipili, and then to Malawi via Mbeya- it's a lovely run through the mountains to the border at Songwe, or from, in your case. Allow plenty of time to get through Tunduma, it's a bit clogged up to say the least!

I'm afraid my view of charity work in Africa is a bit jaundiced as a result of many conversations I had while I was there. When you're at Kipili have a look at the two nice ambulance boats rotting/being dismantled near the village. The engines went a long time ago. Nice idea, badly executed and a waste of $70K US.... That said, leaving aside the luxury the NGOs at Lakeshore were enjoying, their organisation (self funding) seemed to be doing good work around the lake.
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Old 18 Nov 2015
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I have a sceptical view too - i guess good intentions don't automatically translate to good outcomes.

Getting more involved in a couple of specific projects has allowed me to get closer to how the money actually gets spent and also to make sure there is a coherent, measurable and worthwhile objective so i can assess at the end whether i got value for money or not.


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Old 19 Nov 2015
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No doubt there is good work being done, sounds as though you will be able to get closer to the sharp end than most of us who give (or gave...) occasionally. Have a great trip!
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Old 19 Nov 2015
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Thanks! Really looking forward to it (and enjoying the planning). Very grateful to you and others for the help - real experience is invaluable.


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