I’ve just travelled solo (23/12/09) up to Tombouctou north from Douentza, about 200km. I based myself at Douentza to make the most of the cool morning, it starts to get hot about 11am, the road from Mopti is undergoing road improvement which means you’ll be on a graded track sections and the ashfelt further north to Douentza has lots of potholes. Oh, there is a hotel with secure parking on the left as you come in and fuel stations in Douentza but would recommend bush camping off the dirt road up to Tombouctou (I arrived too late in the day to make bush camp and the thought of a shower since Senegal sounded needed!).

The first 100km of graded dirt track to the village of Bambara-Maounde, some heavy corrugations and as you get up the track but it’s no worries. No sand to speak of but watch out for those yellow/white patches in the red track as they can be soft sandy holes. The first part of the track has water crossings that can drop off and a steep edge before the cement section crossing the waterbed, there was no water to be seen now. Also watch out for rough parts in the track where the water cut a channel across, I was loaded with a set of knobbles on the back and my suspension came down hard into one and the rebound gave me an interesting ride… I did the route with a road base rubber, Metzeler Enduro3 Sahara’s, no worries. Oh and watch out for the locals in 4x4 doing Mac1 going for Mac2, and don’t hit any of the local donkey trains!!

The other 100km north of Bambara-Maounde is the same as the previous, with more lighter corrugations and more sandy patches. I deflated my tyres for this part later on. This part of the was being improved as I rode up and they were up until the last 50km, dumping and the grader levelling hard fill into the rut sections, I guess they won’t stop until they have finished it all the way. The last 50km was more interesting with locals opting to get off the main route for some sections and creating various side routes which can be more sandy (not deep) but these can be better than the main route as the soft ruts can be all over the place, deep in places and some big sandy holes to give it a hand full of throttle out the other side. Once you first meet to river Niger relax and enjoy the views, I paid 3000CFA for the roll-on roll-off boat to take you across and I recommend some of the local food before leaving these friendly smiley people. It was just around a 4hour route in total not riding like a mad man and was glad I set off in the cool of the morning.

Speaking to a French guy in a 4x4 here about the other route west to Segou, north of the Niger river, it was a couple of years since he did it and didn’t recommend it for the bike as it was very bad, sandy, corrugations... not sure what it is like now but I tended to trust in him more than others I’ve spoken to, he’s travelled these parts a few years. He also said that the parts further away from Tombouctou have got more unpredictable, Tuareg groups having a go at each other with guns and stuff, plus bandits doing the kidnapping in the area then handing you over to Ali Queda. As for the route I did to Tombouctou and around here I’ve no worries and just battling off the local ejjits hassling me.

I’m going to travel the route south I came (see the Dogon country), don’t fancy battling 100’s of kms in the heat solo and possible fuel issues, the lack stops riding west. I was told various stories from locals about the route I done, the last 100kms is very sandy, it’s the Sahara look at the map, bikes can’t pass that way! A other guy wanted me to park the bike at a hotel and he would take me in his 4x4 because I would never make it (sniff sniff...i get a wiff of she’it). Tales of bikers getting recued for big fees. I consider myself to be no expert rider but I’ll give it a go before turning around. It’s very bike doable, well travelled route with no dunes.

This is a complete honest description as of xmas 2009 and haven’t been kidnapped yet. Everybody has a story to tell and a far helping of smelly BS. Ride it, enjoy it.

As for Tombouctou, I’ve now got that badge and just need a photo. What else can I say about the dusty place, hmmmmmm… they have cold s for 1000CFA at the hotel but you can get into the army camp through a small gray side door for a cheap !!! AKA, The Star Wars Bar!! Fill your boots!!

Duck
(written more than I though, I must be bored haahaaa)

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Don’t believe everything you hear! People love to tell a good story...