Hello,
I live in Nigeria and been following post by travelers on the board here and also find the board useful for trip planning.

I have done a loop from Nigeria (Port Harcourt) to Cameroon - Gabon and back. Also done Nigeria-Niger-Burkina Faso- Ghana-Togo-Benin several times.

In country, I either fly or go by bike and have put above 90,000 km on my '05 GS before the odometer got annoyed and now only shows 9999s...

Ok, intro over.

I read about people taking or planning detours to avoid riding/driving through Nigeria and a couple of other comments.

First of all, yes, Nigeria is dangerous, and entering Nigeria can be a shock. Immediately past the border, things are a little ramped up. More people, most in a hurry, more aggressive officials, more of everything, but you can still pass through with no delay.


Crime:
Most crime is directed at new cars and SUVs, type of vehicles used by a typical overlander is not a likely target. Your major problem will be running into a robbery operation along the highway.

Police:
Especially in the southern part of Nigeria, there are a million and one checkpoints along the roads, bikes usually pass through with minimal stops. If you are stopped, stay by the person that stopped you, say good afternoon or whatever and wait for them to speak or ask questions.

My experience is that most stops are just to look at your bike. You may be asked for your papers on rare occasions, just show your vehicle registration, insurance and driving license (photocopied and stapled together).

Your mission is to travel around and see the country, next destination is the next major town, giving money to officials is at your personal discretion, I do not.

Roads:
There is a large road network, but you need to watch out for other road users and potholes (here defined as proper holes across, along, beside the road)


Ok, got to run now, will keep adding to this over the coming days.

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

contd


Roads:
There is a large road network, but you need to watch out for other road users and potholes (here defined as proper holes across, along, beside the road)


Almost all the towns are linked via tarmac roads. In the south, some roads go off during the rainy season but are still passable even by sportsbike.

Money
You can change money at most bank branches but limited to major towns (read state capitals). Banks have recently started operating bureau de change services in selected branches.

The major banks are

GTBank
UBA
Zenith
Intercontinental Bank
First Bank
and a couple of others

Most have websites. You will get a slightly better rate changing at the 'black market' if you have a guide to handle that for you. Or drive/ride to any of the major hotels in the big towns, moneychangers hand around there. Rates are lower on Saturdays/Sundays (you get less local currency for your dollars/pounds).

Life is easier if you have US dollars or UK pounds to change.

Visas
Should not be a problem getting
I have written letters of invitation for a couple of bikers passing through, I was surprised though when the Nigerian embassy at Cameroun actually called me twice to confirm a letter.

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

I usually buy from Total stations which have branches all over Nigeria.

Fuel availability is iffy, many travelers report that fuel is only available at major towns, I think what they mean is that stations outside major towns appear not to be selling.
When traveling and there is fuel shortage, I depend on fuel stations outside major towns, they usually stock but sell above the recommended pump prices so most taxis and co. prefer to queue and buy at the major towns.

Check if you can along your route, if you see people at the station, they may stock and sell.

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

Thanks Inyang

I will be in Nigeria in a few days. Do you know the typical premium you can get by using the black market to exchange currency?

I see the official rate to the US is about N150 at the moment. Do you know roughly what the black market rate is? Just wondering whether it is worth the hassle....

You'll probably get 152N to the dollar, not really worth it. But, the 'black' market is faster and less hassles.
Just do your transaction at one of the big places and you should be ok.

At the big hotels, the receptionist or guards all know the money changers and can call them up for you.

Where are you entering through?

PM me if you need more info or help.

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

Hi Inyang,

Thanks for the posts - I'll be collecting my visa today and should be inNigeria around mid-April! I'll keep watching this thread.
Heard yesterday that there's trouble around Jos - what's that about and do you think it will continue for long?

Kobus

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"The fates lead him who will; him who won't they drag." - Anon

Jos. That was bad.
Religious riots (well, a polite way of saying one section took out the other).

Lots of destruction including human lives.

Over now

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

Wars and destruction in the names of Gods... Doesn't seem like it will ever end, does it?

Glad to hear that Jos is quieter now. Thanks for all the info.

Kobus

__________________
"The fates lead him who will; him who won't they drag." - Anon

CyberCafes
Cybercafe numbers are dwindling but you can still get them though.

There is a wide variety of internet providers and all the major (4) GSM networks do data.

Most people that need to browse therefore usually use their phones, get a data dongle or use a wireless network router.

Cafes are now almost limited to students registering for exams, checking results, a few businesses that do not need day to day connection and such. But ask around and you should be able to get one.

Phone service
Zain (www.zain.com) has good coverage for West and Central Africa and their sim cards roam seamlessly in the countries they cover. You are not charged as a roaming user so the sim you bought at Burkina Faso should make and receive calls in Gabon at local rates. Their international call rates are also reasonable.

Zain


If you are using a data enabled phone, you can fire off you urgent emails where there is GPRS/3G service (Zain is behind MTN on data coverage though)

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

What happens if you break down?

Well, apart from feeling sorry for yourself, it should not be the end of your journey. This is one area vehicles will have some advantages (in terms of repair/parts) over bikes. You should be able to get virtually any part from a major town for your vehicle.

How to get to the next town.
If you are on one of the big road arteries, there MAY be tow trucks, but lets assume there are no dedicated trucks, you can start by flagging down lorries and pointing at your broken down vehicle, empty lorries/trucks usually help out for a fee and should be able to tow you to the next town.

For a bike, trucks may/can carry you and the bike to the next town for repairs etc.

I have made use of such services twice, first time I got a lift (for the bike) in 45mins, second time I spent half of a day with only two trucks slowing down (interesting thing was some guys told me I would not likely get a lift for the bike that day as most trucks will be returning from the main market on that route fully laden, they were right and that is a route I have passed for years and not noticed any particular day for empty/full trucks)


If it is a minor problem (or you think it is minor-), you can get a mechanic/electrician from a neaby place to assist you. My experience is that the roadside guys can repair a lot of stuff if you explain it to them and keep a sharp eye on proceedings.

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

inyang will be crossin Nigeria from Niger(zinder) in early sept this year going across from gumel,potiskum,gombe crossing the border at yola into Cameroon any problems going this way?? LES

It's generally easier to ride/drive through Northern Nigeria and things get more hectic the lower you descend, you are skimming through the northern part from your posted route.

Listen to the BBC Africa service and you should be warned about any potential/ongoing problems. Main issue that way is riots in major cities usually (actually always) started by religious fundies. Its quite rare though (even though it looks like a regular occurrence if you read about them).

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria

[quote=inyang;267500]Hello,
First of all, yes, Nigeria is dangerous, and entering Nigeria can be a shock. Immediately past the border, things are a little ramped up. More people, most in a hurry, more aggressive officials, more of everything, but you can still pass through with no delay.
quote]

Crossed from Benin at Tchikandou 5 days ago, was quite, no cars, some scooters, nobody asked for bribe (except from the Benin side, told I have little money which is true, and they said I will not get away with this excuse at Nigerian side, funny was all opposite), friendly officials, no checkpoints all the way to Abuja, petrol is all over the place, road to Kaiama was first 'nice' bush road, and people are the friendliest I met so far in Africa. When riding through small villages children start running towards me screaming loudly YEAEEEEEEEEH! very funny

good to hear
hope you are having fun!

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inyang

Port Harcourt, Nigeria