Hey!

Im down in Southern Syria and just started to hear a real nasty metal sound as Im driving at slow speeds. The sound is like what I would imagine would happen if weren’t hitting the teeth correctly every once and a while and then falling in- but I don’t see that while itson the center stand. Maybe its there at high speeds but I cant tell. Its not even or rotational (like would be the case if one link of my chain were malfunctioning) but rather fairly sporatic.
It happens almost exclusively when there is weight on it (Ive only gotten to hear it once or twice with the bike on the center stand.)
I have thoroughly cleaned the chain and sprockets and they don’t seem to be the problem… but its in this area.
I recently had my back tire changed and think that perhaps the mechanic didn’t quite get everything back together correctly.

One thing I was thinking it may be was the chain adjustment. Its stupid of me but I don’t quite understand how they work. I have attached pictures of them but it seems that one of the adjusters quite touching and the other is on the teeth. Should the numbers coinside? The left side of the bike is on 12 and the right side is around 22 – but as you can see they are flipped.

Any ideas? Im pretty despirate as well…Im in Syria and there are defiantly no Honda mechanics around haha. Oh adventure riding J

Thanks!

Hey there,

if you are in Syria, going down to Amman, Jordan could be an option. You'll easily get the visa at the border, and although big motorbikes are illegal there, the police rides some and they allowed small motorbikes up to 250cc - I've even seen a motorbikeshop in Amman last year. So know-how would be available. And it should be easier to get spares into Jordan than into Syria, I'd imagine.

Just getting that 2nd syrian visa could make problems. Maybe you'll get yourself a written confirmation from syrian police?

Turkey would also be only a days ride away...

Good luck!

Lars

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Your pictures didn't post but we'll try anyway.........

Are the chain and sprockets in reasonable condition ??

I am not familiar with the adjusters on an AT but by the sounds of it, they are "snail" type. They should be fitted the same both sides; doesn't really matter which way up but should be the same, and set on the same number.

Have a look at the rear sprocket; is there any wear to one side or the other ?

It sounds like it could be an alignment issue so get that sorted and the chain at the correct tension.

Also check for anything fouling the chain; I have had a stone caught behind the front sprocket in the past, wider/knobblier tyre ??; chain guides/rollers/guards.



Hope that helps

Hey mate,

He is correct they are the nautilus type, make sure they match.
Other then that make sure our chain is not too tight or too loose you should have a bout 40-50mm of play on the bottom of the swing arm near the rim of the tyre. Also make sure that your output shaft is not warn too badly. Lastly make sure that your rear wheel bearings are still in good shape.

Good luck if you need step by steps let us know..
X

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http://two-up-ona-twin.blogspot.com

did you check the front shock?? mine problem was the rear shock although i was thinking it was the chain.

best of luck.

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ozhan u.
website under construction

You have me very curious? please explain further?:confused1::confused1::confused1:

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2000 Africa Twin
http://two-up-ona-twin.blogspot.com

i was riding from the UK to Turkey back to 2006. In France near Switzerland border a strange noise come up from back site of the bike only when i am accelarating or in small potholes. so, i slowed down and stoped at the first service statioin. i have check the chain, re-adjusted oiled etc.. but the noise was still there and it was something like 2300 hrs. i carry on riding and reach verona next day at around 1100 hrs. found a bike shop garage there. the guy check the bike and said that it was the rear shock. this was honda garage and my bike was f650. he said that it will take a week to shipped to there. so, somehow i manage to ride to Turkey without any major problem and they fix the shock here, altough the engine has blown up!! was a sad story for me.
anyway, i have a new bike now and i am tuning up the bike and my self to my Morocco trip in 2009.

ps: there was a mistake in my previous post. i ment rear shock not front

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ozhan u.
website under construction

Tybalt, how are you getting on ? I was in Syria 8 weeks ago and still have a few numbers if you need help... if you are sure its not chain or sprocket related, remember run it loose and check it with luggage and someone on the bike !!...Did the tyre fitter refit the chain to tight !!! the adjuster shoudl be both the same way around and read the same number otherwise teh wheel is not true...

You also have something called a damper located within the rear wheel hub, its on the side on the chain. its a rubber block that 'dampens' some of the power when pulling away, rather than the chain doing all the work.. anyway if the wheels off, make sure its there and they are ok, nothing there falling around. Also check your rear wheel bearing, these are quite common in failing. Bike on the center stand and try to lift the rear wheel, you'll fell its loose / movement...

Then take a look at your shock, nothing loose ... if your chain is worn or a bad fit, try to pull it off the rear sprocket, should only move a millimeter or 2 more and its a bad fit or worn.. remember the tension of the chain is taken up on the first few teeth so check in the middle of the sprocket. You'll find the parts manual on Honda Trail Bike Forums this is a good way to check everything is on correctly.

If you head north to Turkey I fully recommend the Honda Bike garage in Antayla I guess that's about 1200kms.. I'll post the co-ordinates and map on the HUBB. Going south then Amman, there are plenty of Honda garages, OK officially its for the smaller bikes ... but still should be able to help.

Good luck and take a day out to enjoy Damascus.. I loved it ...

Keep us posted,

Salut Matt

hi guys.

i had the same problem. my xrv750 weights about 400-450kg when fully loaded. the spockets (front and rear) looks perfectly allright. my chain is always cleaned with brush and sprayed with wd40. when traveling, i use engine oil to top up in my scottoiler. this funny noise only happen when im in 1st and 2nd gear when i accelerate.

whats the matter? im using this chain for 40000km but it looks ok to me.

when my chain is getting old and/or a bit loose i get the same noise! it's a matter of changing your chain. when your accelerating the chain is stretching on the top side and then sagging more on the bottom side. the extra slack is rubbing just after the chain leaves the front sprocket. you only notice it in 1st and 2nd gear's because this is when the chain is under the most stress.




One thing I was thinking it may be was the chain adjustment. Its stupid of me but I don’t quite understand how they work. I have attached pictures of them but it seems that one of the adjusters quite touching and the other is on the teeth. Should the numbers coinside? The left side of the bike is on 12 and the right side is around 22 – but as you can see they are flipped.

Any ideas? Im pretty despirate as well…Im in Syria and there are defiantly no Honda mechanics around haha. Oh adventure riding J


yes both snail adjusters should read the same! = back wheel straight with chain and sprocket's in line. with bike off stand get someone to sit on the bike and then adjust the both sides equally leaving the chain with a little play 2cm ish. this is basic stuff which the tyre fitter should have done for you!

Hey all!

Thank you so very very much for all your help! I was way off with the chain problem - turns out it was the rear bearing! I just couldnt figure it out until we finally gave up looking at the chain and sprockets, and fearing that it was a output drive baring we took the back wheel off and saw the problem instantly!

It was a rough afternoon beating my head against a wall trying to figure out if I would go to Turkey or to Israel to find a part or try to have it shipped in to Damascus. I tried a mechanic down there but his solution was just to slop tons of greece on the bearing...though because it was a closed bearing it was useless. Finally a tout/mechanic seeing our despiration came up. He took us to a friends shop who amazingly had the part! but it was a cheap chinese one and so he sent out a boy to get a better japanese one! I couldnt believe it but by the end of the day I had the part and the bike was back in great shape. The tout charged me 10x the price of the bearing - but hey - I had a working bike so no worries!

Again thanks so much for all the help! Glad I know I can count on the Hubb when in need!

Cheers,
Tim

PS Syria and Jordan RULE! Truly amazing countries!!!!!

i had a chain 'servicing' in viedma. the mechnic took out my chain, lined it on the floor straight and try to pull and push the both end. he found out that some part of the chain was worn off. he removed the worn part and replaced with an old chain (525 type, an old one from a previous customer) and it works! im using DID and 3 segment of the 'new' chain is from RK. fun... i hope it works! i hope it last. it had been 48000km since day 1 that i have not changed the chain and rear spocket. only at 25000km i had to change the front spocket.

question: how do we know that the chain needs to be replaced?

thanks!

"question: how do we know that the chain needs to be replaced?"

answer: hold the chain at the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock, if you can lift the chain off the sprocket by more than a couple of mm then it is stretched and close to replacement.

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The electric monk always has faith.

I need it to be slack by a lot more than a couple of mm before I'd replace it. That's almost brand-new.

I suppose it depends on the power of the bike and the loads you're putting through it. What I would be happy with on my DRZ would be scrap on my road bike.

On the dirt, I normally get at least two front sprockets to a chain and rear sprocket on the DRZ. You will get better life out of a chain if you keep the front sprocket good. It does up to four times the work of the rear but luckily, costs about a quarter of the price.

When you lube your chain, run it around a few times and watch closely for tight links; these will make the chain run "lumpy" over the sprockets. Also, if you use a split-link, watch for wear on the side plate and be ready to replace the little clippy bit. It only takes a slightly bent rear chain guide a few miles to wear the clip away.

Also, see how much sideways slack there is in the chain, when they get floppy they can de-rail if you're chucking it around on the rough stuff.

I have seen bikes running knackered and worn chains without a problem and seen nearly new chains smashed through the engine cases so some of it is judgement and some luck.

If cash and availability aren't a problem, if in doubt, bin it.

thanks electric monk and big yellow tractor.

but when pulling the chain at the rear spocket at 3oclock position, when there is an allowance of a few mm, does it means that we have to tighten the chain?

goh