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  #1  
Old 10 Dec 2016
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CLS - chain oiler
Hi guys,
we are using the chain oiler from CLS - and we are happy with it.

Who of you is (or was) on tour and needs new oil? Which oil are you using?

Many thanks for a reply and many greeting from Cafayate, Argentina
Tom + Lob

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  #2  
Old 10 Dec 2016
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CLS - chain oiler
I used gear oil 90W140 or close to that weight. Just walk in to a car/truck repair shop with a small empty coke bottle and ask if you can get a little. No need for special chain oil.
Cheers,

Peter
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Last edited by Petrus; 10 Dec 2016 at 19:26.
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  #3  
Old 10 Dec 2016
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Stihl chainsaw oil. If its good enough for my Husqvarna, it is good enough for my Husqvarna.
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  #4  
Old 20 Dec 2016
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Thanks - we'll see, what we can get.

Cheers from Mendoza, on the way SOUTH
Tom + Lob
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  #5  
Old 21 Dec 2016
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Originally Posted by duibhceK View Post
Stihl chainsaw oil. If its good enough for my Husqvarna, it is good enough for my Husqvarna.
Chainsaw oil is water soluble, not much use for riding in the wet,

use any cheap mineral oil, it is not at all fussy for grade. The oil is mostly to stop it rusting.
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  #6  
Old 22 Dec 2016
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Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
Chainsaw oil is water soluble, not much use for riding in the wet,
No so - sure, you can buy biodegradable bar and chain oil - for a price, but 99% of it on the (world) market today is not water soluble, most of it is mineral oil with 'tackiness' additives in it so it sticks well to your saw chain - even the expensive Stihl 'Bio' oil degrades only 93% after being exposed 21 days to the environment. The regular Stihl woodcutter oil I use in my chainsaw works a treat in the Scottoiler on the DR, sticks nicely to the chain without picking up too much crap and is a damn site cheaper than Scottoil.
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  #7  
Old 23 Dec 2016
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Originally Posted by Gipper View Post
without picking up too much crap
And in my experience it is particularly that which helps get a good long life from a chain.
I have used regular mineral oil as well, but not every grade gives equal results. The grades typical for engine oils are too viscous and fling off too easily. Always got me dirty rear wheel and chain that wasn't properly lubed all the time.
Chainsaw oil has worked extremely well for me so far.
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Old 24 Dec 2016
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Originally Posted by Gipper View Post
No so - sure, you can buy biodegradable bar and chain oil - for a price, but 99% of it on the (world) market today is not water soluble, most of it is mineral oil with 'tackiness' additives in it so it sticks well to your saw chain - even the expensive Stihl 'Bio' oil degrades only 93% after being exposed 21 days to the environment. The regular Stihl woodcutter oil I use in my chainsaw works a treat in the Scottoiler on the DR, sticks nicely to the chain without picking up too much crap and is a damn site cheaper than Scottoil.
You may be right, I buy cheap chainsaw oil from local shop, all that I have seen here is water soluble, but that does not mean some isn't. Having an old fashioned motorcycle I use the 80/90 ep gearbox oil from my bike to protect chains. but remember the oil is just cleaning and stopping rust. does not do much lubricating. You also don't want is to team up with grit/sand in very dry conditions
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Old 24 Dec 2016
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I'm sure that I've read that with the modern "O" ring etc etc type chains, that the main benefit of the oil is to keep the "O" rings moist to help prevent them cracking. I'd also think that it'll help keep the corrosion at bay on the side plates etc, though suspect that this is purely cosmetic.
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  #10  
Old 29 Dec 2016
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I use motor oil, since I'm carrying it anyway. No reason to carry special oil. I can get up to 40,000km out of an o-ring chain in this manner.
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  #11  
Old 29 Jun 2017
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What are people's views on automatic chain lube systems? Worthwhile ?


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