I've found a great solution to the spoked tubeless wheels conundrum.
Buy a bike with OEM spoked TL ;-))

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Morocco Overland 4 (2025) • Trans Morocco Trail

Since unlike Chris I'm not going to buy a new motorbike, I can see an outex kit in my future for the Himalayan based on this endorsement (I missed the post before somehow)

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FreeBSD fan since before it was cool ...

At some point I am going to get my backside into gear and do the change on my Guzzi V85TT. The rims have the safety bead so they are good for the job.
I'm not going the Outex route - but a version of. I have the correct tape 3M Extreme Sealing Tape 4411N 75mm wide together with sealing tyre valves and some silicon rubber for true belts and braces. I have printed off some covers for the nipple on the end of my spokes on my 3D printer so that I will be able to adjust the spokes without disturbing the tape (the nipple spins under the cover).

The hold up is just finding time to do it - I seem to be busy the whole time at the moment. I look back at the hassle caused by my punctures in the tubes last year and I don't want the same again - I can seal a leak and insert plug in 20 minutes - less if I don't if stop for a cup of tea part way through.

I may do a video of the process to show that even a muppet can doo it. Or not as the case may be!

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You will have to do without pocket handkerchiefs, and a great many other things, before we reach our journey's end, Bilbo Baggins. You were born to the rolling hills and little rivers of the Shire, but home is now behind you. The world is ahead.

How did you get on..? Any advice before I dive in? Is there a video? Cheers

I haven't bitten the bullet - I am rebuilding another bike at the moment so I going to get that back on the road first as I don't want to be bikeless in the summer months.

There are some videos on You Tube - search for "sealing spoked motorcycle wheels for tubeless".

Essentially the process I am going to use is:
1 ensure that the rim is suitable for tubeless tyres - does it have a safety bead to prevent the tyre slipping into the centre channel
2 the prepare rim so that the tape I am going to apply sticks really, really well - the technical term is "it sticks like shit to a blanket"
3 have nipple covers - this is to allow the spoke to be adjusted without disturbing the sealing tape. I have used a 3D printer to get the nipple covers the right size for my wheels (I think!).
4 thoroughly degrease the rim so that there is no risk of an area with poor adnesion
5 apply the tape in the centre of the channel over the top of the nipple covers starting away from the valve hole and ensuring that there are no ripples in the tape that could allow air to escape. End by overlapping the tape by, say, 100-125mm.
6 use a roller to apply pressure all over the tape so that there is no route for air to escape
7 the tape should be only in the channel so this may require any excess to be trimmed off without disturbing the tape / rim bond
8 fit the tyre valve - I will use a little silicon sealant to ensure a good seal
9 put the tyre back on and inflate - personally I don't think I will bother putting the wheel back onto the bike until I know that the seal is good at holding pressure for a couple of weeks or more. Having the spare bike is helpful here!
10 balance the wheel
11 refit the wheel (and take a battery tyre inflator plus a sealing system for the now inevitable punctures)

The single most important step is the first one - ensuring that your rims are suitable for tubeless tyres and make sure that the tyres you fit are tubeless!

There is a good video on You Tube here.

Once I get it done I will report back

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You will have to do without pocket handkerchiefs, and a great many other things, before we reach our journey's end, Bilbo Baggins. You were born to the rolling hills and little rivers of the Shire, but home is now behind you. The world is ahead.