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  #1  
Old 26 Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by Rebaseonu View Post
This has been also recommended much around the 'net but I did per manual after 500 km. My arguments were that perhaps some special running in oil was used in factory and if I replace it with usual oil it may not be as good. Some may say that is stupid but then prove me wrong.
The term "as good" need to be qualified. Often running in oil does not contain all the anti wear properties of normal service oil so in fact is "less good". Any way I recommend you change it for running in oil at 50/80 miles together with a new filter until the first service, then follow the makers recommendations.. Often this will be a waste, but usually running a new motor for this amount of time will clean all of the swarf and other loose stuff you dont want circulating or in your filter.
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Old 27 Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
The term "as good" need to be qualified. Often running in oil does not contain all the anti wear properties of normal service oil so in fact is "less good".
Gents, lets get this straight. There is no such thing as running-in oil.

Manufacturers just use regular oil - I know, I spent a lot of time around the assembly plant of Japan's largest auto company and have asked the question of the head engineer.

The reason oil analyses of oil removed from a newly run in vehicle show different chemical constituents is because the engines are assembled using molybendum lubricants and grease. The molybendum then shows up in the oil analysis leading us to believe in this legendary running-in oil with miraculous qualities. The actual oil they use in new motors is not even high quality oil - just generic base level oil folks.

As for changing the oil after a couple of hundred km from new - yes, I totally agree. It can do no harm (other than to your hip pocket), and potentially a lot of good.

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Old 27 Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by farqhuar View Post
Gents, lets get this straight. There is no such thing as running-in oil.

Manufacturers just use regular oil - I know, I spent a lot of time around the assembly plant of Japan's largest auto company and have asked the question of the head engineer.
Regular oil -- maybe yes, but what is "regular oil"!? Some manufacturers recommend synth, others don't care. I guess some who recommend only synth still come with mineral as running in oil. Some maybe not. How do you know if your vehicle comes with synth or mineral? If it is mineral and you'll put synth in after 50 km that may not be that good. If it comes with synth and you put in mineral after 50 km as everyone suggest, that may be good as well. Basically there is not much info around about what exactly was used in factory. Your Japan factory anectote is just an anectote until you see some data on paper that comes from manuafacturer (even you get to see spec for this certain brand, another one may use different oil).
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Old 27 Mar 2009
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My understanding is that many manufacturers put regular non-synth oil in their bikes at the factory because synth oil is too low friction to breakin the engine quickly. They then recommend synth oil from the first service and from then on.

Regarding break-in procedure. I think it is a very brave person who goes with something they read on the Internet rather than what their bike manufacturer specifies. Of all my bikes, 3 were brand new, I've always followed the handbook - never had a problem. My warranty is too precious to mess about with.
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Old 27 Mar 2009
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Ride it as normal..... The manufacturers know your going to anyway !! They put all that RPM levels in the manual to get out of paying out under warranty if you let slip to your dealer than you didn't follow the book. Maybe 20 years ago you have broke in your engine, but that was before the day of advanced precision engineering that we enjoy today.

The important thing is that you don't LOAD the bike too early in its life. Don't over-rev in low gears or try and pull away in 3rd gear etc..

Its all about damage limitation. If something is put together wrong, its going to fail anyway.. whether in the first week or 2-3 weeks later, Its going to happen !!

You SHOULD change the oil early on as you can check for any shards of metal in it and also, its contaminated early as the engine is broken in..

What many people don't know is, every engine is bench tested before its fitted and released anyway (or should be)..

It is true that "ragging" an engine from new will create a better "Ring to bore" seal...

Racers certainly don't "bed in" their engines and you can guarantee all those big fast sports bike engines with 30,000 miles on them were ragged to death by their new owners on day 1 and they're still running fine.
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Old 27 Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by farqhuar View Post
Gents, lets get this straight. There is no such thing as running-in oil.

Manufacturers just use regular oil - I know, I spent a lot of time around the assembly plant of Japan's largest auto company and have asked the question of the head engineer.
Garry from Oz.
I accept you cant buy a can of running in oil. BUT many manufacturers use a different oil for running in to normal service oils. BMW for instance used to use dino oils for the initial 500 miles. Before switching to synth.
So when I say running in oil, I mean the type of oil recommended for this process. If it happens to be normal service oil, then so be it. BUT it might not be the same.
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Old 27 Mar 2009
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I accept you cant buy a can of running in oil.
You can, a lot of companies sell them: CASTROL RUNNING IN OIL - 5 litre
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Old 1 Apr 2009
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Having looked at this, and various other forums, I think I'll just go with the Yahama instructions on this one. There seems to be a consensus that an oil and filter change around 30 - 50 miles is a good idea, plus not riding at a constant speed for too long.

The question is, how many miles would I have to put on the clock before it'd be ok to do a small tour, etc. I was hoping to do a small trip round Wales & southern England next week...



Alex
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Old 1 Apr 2009
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For my new KTM 690 the manufacturer says not to exceed 6krpm for the first 1000km (first service) and then not to exceed 7.5krpm for the next 1000km - and that is all. I was surprised that it was 6k not 4.5 or 5 but riding the bike it seems right. I'm just riding normally using all the gears, engine braking etc. just not wringing it through the gears. Oil is fine for the first 1000km. Even though the rings are not bedded you get very little petrol contamination in a new engine. Any 'swarf' that may find its way into the oil will be filtered out.

Race engines need much less running in as the 'blueprinting' process ensures that everything is within very tight tolerances from the outset and bores and rings are finished to a much higher spec than a mass produced engine.
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