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4 Jun 2010
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Another tip especially with regards the controls on the handlebars, don't tighten them up too tight once the correct position has been found, tight but not lock tight. This is so, when(not if) the bike tips over, they will rotate on the bars and most liklely not damage the levers or switches.
Cheers
TS
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5 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravellingStrom
Another tip especially with regards the controls on the handlebars, don't tighten them up too tight once the correct position has been found, tight but not lock tight. This is so, when(not if) the bike tips over, they will rotate on the bars and most liklely not damage the levers or switches.
Cheers
TS
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Yup !! Forgot to mention that.. Good tip
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6 Jun 2010
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The problem with this old gem (and a lot of race based ideas) is that it can involve you needing to constantly fiddle with the bike. Personally I'd take a look at handguards and leave the levers alone if they look survivable. Loose bits get looser until they drop off, so you need to check again and again.
On the same tack, lets have all the new guys only carry one spare 21-inch tube (they get double the practice changing 'em but it saves gramme after gramme of weight) and route new cables alongside the old ones where they can sieze up before you need them
Honestly guys, don't worry about this micro-detail stuff, just do a little preparation and ride the ride
Andy
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6 Jun 2010
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Get a good seat as well nothing worse than a numb bum
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23 Jun 2010
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Grant covers some of these same things in the Gear Up video. Very nice.
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23 Jun 2010
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He sure does, I would reccommend the DVD to anyone
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25 Jun 2010
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Thanks Ted, great advice for a newby like me!
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6 Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie
The problem with this old gem (and a lot of race based ideas) is that it can involve you needing to constantly fiddle with the bike. Personally I'd take a look at handguards and leave the levers alone if they look survivable. Loose bits get looser until they drop off, so you need to check again and again.
On the same tack, lets have all the new guys only carry one spare 21-inch tube (they get double the practice changing 'em but it saves gramme after gramme of weight) and route new cables alongside the old ones where they can sieze up before you need them
Honestly guys, don't worry about this micro-detail stuff, just do a little preparation and ride the ride
Andy
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Levers can still get broken, even with hand guards fitted. One can break levers, master cylinders or clutch perches and the like. Hand guards a must on any bike intended for overlanding off road. But keeping levers/perches only semi tight is a must, IMHO. And they don't come loose. In a fall they may rotate a bit, saving you lots of trouble. The idea is to tighten enough to keep them in place (with Loc-Tite) but loose enough that when forced they rotate rather than snap off. It's technique .... not technical.
No fiddling really. My DR650 has had hand guards and semi-tight bolts for over 2 years. Never touched them, other than to lever them back straight after a fall. This is not a minor thing, IMHO. If you break a master cylinder or perch, you are screwed. Been there, done that.
Nothing gets loose cause Pros Loc-Tite everything. All perch bolts, lever bolts, all hand guard hard ware. Loc-Tite. Basic.
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6 Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravellingStrom
Another tip especially with regards the controls on the handlebars, don't tighten them up too tight once the correct position has been found, tight but not lock tight. This is so, when(not if) the bike tips over, they will rotate on the bars and most liklely not damage the levers or switches.
Cheers
TS
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This is an old desert/enduro rider trick. One addition would be to USE Loc-Tite on the bolts in question. Why? Since you are not tightening them up full snug there is a minor chance, over time they may vibrate loose and you could have the bolts back out on you. Using Loc-Tite keeps the bolts in place. BTW, having crashed more than my share I can attest that this technique does save levers/brake master cylinders.
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