I've been to Morocco recently, also riding alone, but not further south. During the day, I did leave the bike with only the steering lock. at night, I only left my bike 'outside' once, and I chained it to something immovable and had a ratty cover on it. I took the panniers inside where I was staying. There's lots here about covers and their usefulness, especially if they look really old / have been used as paint covers / etc. I've also heard people comment that theft of 'large' bikes can be rare in North Africa, as they can be difficult to sell / get parts / etc. I'm not sure whether I'd want to put this to the test, though! In Morocco, I always stayed in hotels, as they were cheap. It also had the added bonus that the guest parking had guardians over night. I generally gave them a little cash in the morning.
I wouldn't have left the bike without a cover and just the steering lock - I don't rate these anyway, despite always using them!
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