July and August in and out through borders of Turkey, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova, Ukraine, with NO problems. Into Russia at Kerch, east end of Crimea.

Group of 10 very experienced riders held for 8 hours at Russian entry. Told paperwork for bikes was incomplete. Chief Border officer wanted $1,500 (US), $150 (US) per bike. Finally settled for $1,000 (US) after 7 hours. Outrageous. We all had bad vibes even for our age group of 50's and 60's. And the handwritten paperwork, hours...wow. We remain impressed at the "old school" techniques for a country that claims otherwise. The Russian border mafia made out very well considering the average wage is very low, (extremely low!) by western standards. Without our interpreter we would have had a bigger problem for sure.

OK, then 15 km in and stopped at highway check station, who did not accept International Drivers License of one rider because it lacked a stamp under "Motorcycle". Stamped in adjacent box..you know what I mean.

Used the US State license with motorcycle endorsement and then paid the $150(US) cash settlement after 3 hours being detained.

On to Sochi, where the Russian fat cats and vacationers "hang". The hotel (The big one!) parking lot manager wanted $400(US) to park the 10 bikes fort 2 1/2 days. Bikes were not even in the parking/auto lot but under a veranda. Finally settled for $50(US) after 2 days.

Georgia entry cancelled...that Russian problem again, back to Turkey by ferry.
Cheers.

Sorry for all the problems, but a couple of reactions. I rode through Russia this summer and currently live in Moscow.

1) I went through the crossing at Kerch this summer, but the other way. No problems or bribes other than a pretty long process of filling out the paperwork. I have heard of similar problems at this crossing in the past, though.

2) You shouldn't have expected any different in Sochi; as you say, it is where it fat cats hang out and they throw money around like confetti. Even elsewhere in Russia, "high end" facilities are in short supply and often demand premium prices.

3) I probably rode through about 7k kilometers in Russia, and almost all of the cops were very friendly and/or professional. I speak Russian pretty well, and when they found out we were riding all the way through Russia, they almost never even asked for any kind of documents. Also, we tried to stay off the major highways, where there is more traffic and more cops. Only place I had to pay a bribe, and where the cops in general where a pain, was in Bashkiria (Bashkortistan), which is some kind of mini-republic inside of Russia.

I understand that lots of people have problems in Russia but want to make sure that people are aware that not everyone has these issues. I highly recommend travel through Russia.

I'm sure, cops and customs are one of few factors that make people like or dislike country, but here, in Russia you mast forget about that! Here you mast remember - ACAB! You choosed the wrong route, road to Sochy is not the best way to see Russia, next time, please ask someone local for advice, in that region I can suggest you lots of interesting distinations.

Tenpdx, I think with the upset between east / west at the moment things are bound to be fraught on some of the border crosings -I don know but from your use of language I am guessing your american if so not the most popular race with russia at the moment with all the us government interference in russian politics and ex soviet states - and this will filter down to border guards and police. I have to say I really like russia and have not had any real hassle when entering/ leaving or travelling there. However I have heard of several large groups of motorbikes really getting stung so maybe it a group thing - I travel only with my wife on pillion. I have to say that I have cancelled a three month trip I had planned that included a lot of time in the russia, ukrain and the stans for next year - simply because i get the feeling there could be a bit of agro with the authorities so I am heading elsewhere instead that is until the relevant governments settle themselves down and behave (Mine is british and just as interfearing as the us.) Sorry to hear you have had such a bad experience of russia though because it really is a facinating country with lots to see and once you get to know the people they really are nice to be with.

Hi Rurider,

I'm heading from Ukraine through Russia to Kazakhstan and Central Asia next month. Any suggestions about route?

Thanks.

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Hı´travelled from Kerch ınto Russıa and through Russıa wıth no problems last week. there are lots of polıce and check poınts and we got stopped twıce but showed them our passports and we got waved on. Andy

In my personal experience many Eastern European countries are just like that. The only ones I haven't had any border trouble with were Poland, Czech Republic (nice cops, too; got stopped several times and all they did was ask questions about our trip, wanted to see photos, etc.), Slovenia, Slovakia, Hungary and Croatia. The rest - Belarus, Ukraine, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Russia have been responsible for a serious amount of anger, despair, and attempted bribery on several levels at one point or another. Back in 2006 when trying to cross the Polish-Russian border coming from Gdansk going to Kaliningrad actually resulted in us turning around. Paperwork was fine, visas were valid but we strictly refused to pay the alleged 'admission fee' they were trying to charge us (100 Euros per person first, then all of a sudden we qualified for a 'rebate' and only had to pay 50 Euros per person.... yeah, right). After hours of playing the waiting game and endless negotiations we demanded our paperwork back and simply turned around, secretly giving them the finger. It's a shame, really, because I also have to agree with what has been said before: once we passed the border hassles we've met some of the nicest people in Eastern Europe you could possibly imagine.

As far as police check points and alleged traffic violations goes I was able to escape all attempts at bribery. In my experience the South American amigo-tactic works best: ask the first local you meet how to translate amigo and whenever cops stop you and demand a bribe just smile, pat their shoulder, and go "amigo...." in local tongue. Eventually they'll figure out you're not going to pay them and let you go. That obviously only works tho if you're 100% innocent and have not commited any crimes or traffic violations.

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"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid across the line broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, leaking oil, shouting GERONIMO!"

Let me get this straight...10 of you guys showed up at the border at the same time and expected expedient processing of your paperwork without bribes?

And what made you think you would be able to cross into Georgia from Russia....ignoring the recent hostilities...I'm curious?

This is Russia...things are different and inconsistent...keep a low profile, smile, shake their hands when you greet them...and more often than not, things will go fine.

The Russian people are amazing...especially the Russian biker community...but dealing with the Russian gov't...hmm.

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edde
93 BMW K75s
www.motoedde.com

Edde
You kind of echo my thoughts. A large group of affluent western travellers (by the sound of things some of them Americans) arriving at the Russian/Gergian border at a time when Putin is shouting at Bush for supplying arms to Georgia and Bush is shouting at Putin for invading his candidate NATO country.... probably not the best start . It could only really go downhill after that
I don't condone the bribes but I think it could have been avoided if handled delicately. The sad thing is having paid up such substantial amounts the next poor biker that comes through is going to suffer too..... after all what have the border guards got to lose now.

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I must add that I felt an air of arrogance within the original post. Almost demanding by right, based on "highly experienced", ages, wealth?, etc.

Possibly the Customs guys did too and, human nature being what it is anywhere, decided to respond in the only way they can.

Although more elderly than his group, and riding alone, I have not had their troubles in entering Russia 3 times by bike in the last 15 months. Nor in riding over 10,000 miles while there, including the same Black Sea coastal areas.

Sure I get stopped for documents checks regularly, but that is just a frustrating fact of everyday life in Russia. It happens just as much when I drive a locally registered car.

Make sure your documents are in order and valid, and be polite, then no problem - even if you speak no Russian, like myself.

Odd that one of them was happy to try to travel without the correct stamp on his IDP. Did he check first? -
-if not, more fool the traveller.
-if so, what a swaggering arrogance that he did not bother to get it corrected before departing and thereby was quite happy to jeopardise his own journey and that of his companions.

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?????
If the paperwork is REALLY incomplete, shouldn't they have been kept OUT/sent back to have it rectified?
We've all met officials who demand bribes, and these disgusting specimens of rotting offal are not motivated by patriotism/upholding the rule of law. "Delicate" handling is limited in it's effectiveness when somebody bent has decided to use you to enrich himself/herself.

^Well said.

Lets not all jump on the bashing bandwagon now. This guy signed up for this website just so he could give future riders a warning about his experience. It is too often the case with Horizons that the "high post count" members are looking for any chance they can to jump on the "low post count" members. This discourages new people from joining and takes away from the comraderie that we have here.

When the original poster mentioned that the riders in his group were in their 50's and 60's it was obvious that he was referring to the fact that they were laid back and not in a hurry to go, but that waiting 7 hours at one border was rediculous.

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http://www.journeyrider.net Latin America blog (07-8)

Anyone travelling east from Chita towards Vlad watch out for the blokes flagging you down to take all your gear. We had it twice in 2 days. One, the blike sitting apparantly unconcious with a hat and sunspecs on. Mate on mobile flagging you down for help. The rest are in the woods. An older repectable looking flagging us down whilst on mobile for some help. Other cars aroound stopped and occupied, very remote. Wave to them that you are pulling in and drive on! take care..no cops in this area.

mcinaly-
Do you have approximate GPS position for the location or Route number and junctions.

:confused1:JB

No unfortunatly but they move around anyway. One was at a rail crossing and another at a blind bend where you slow down. It will be well away from any town and there is a lead car which pulls in in front to try to lead you in. They do not follow you so just indicate that you are stopping and the go for it. I spoke to the cops about 200km later when i first saw them and they laughed saying 'Ah...mafia'???? Bottom line do not stop for anyone.