Hey,

I just ran short on some top quality chain lube while near the Lao/ Cambodia boarder. Been trying to get some more for days but when I present the empty spay can and pantomime application, people just stare at me like I have 12 heads. Even in a major city, Pakse, I couldn't find any, or anyone who seemed to get that I was looking for something, anything, to lubricate the chain to my motorcycle. That said, most of my searching/ antics/ and acting were in small towns :-)

Any alternatives?
I bought 'cup-grease' but I think its mainly for large, cold temp joints. In a pinch, I'm gonna mix that with motor oil and apply.

Its dusty and hot as balls here if that helps. My chain is currently dusty too :-(

Thanks

I use ep80w gear oil as chain lube

Easy to find anywhere

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Engine oil. Because, you know, you might find it useful to be carrying some anyway.

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dashmoto.net

Yep, I've got some. But is hot as hell here and seems a tad thin. Thoughts on mixing it with standard cup grease? Lots of dust here too. Poor chain :-(

If it's thin, it'll fling off and take the dust with it. Just keep reapplying.

I use grease on the road in the UK, because it doesn't just wash straight off in our lovely wet weather. Tend to switch to oil for dusty places, because grease just attracts the dust.

That's my theory anyway :confused1:

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dashmoto.net

Just after the wheel was invented ..... and before O-ring chains

We boiled our chains in grease then hung them out to dry, it seemed to work well enough and ought not be too hard to arrange in the 3rd world.

90 weight gear oil seems to work great for me. Honda I believe recommends it along with some chain manufacturers.

Yep, that's dead right.
Using the kitchen, it's best done only if you KNOW your mum will be out for the entire operation! Like wot I and my Dad used to do .

Runny engine oil is fine, it'll take the dust and dirt away with it. Don't overdo it though. Little and often.
"top quality chain lube" often just attracts the dirt.

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TTR250 - London to Cape Town

from preference I re-use the EP90 gearbox oil from when I change it on my Enfield, Apply with a 1 inch paintbrush. engine oil is fine also.
If you are using a modern O or X ring chain, the oil is just cleaning it and on my old style chain it is lubricating the chain as it can get inside the rollers

Oil.
Chains love oil.
Any kind of oil.
On long gravel, or mud passages, I alternate applications of motor oil and WD-40, at or between fuel stops.
In wet weather, or running in deep mud, I will spray or oil the drive chain every couple hours.
Running dry pavement, I reduce lubrication to only two or three times per day.

On earth, in the 21st century, it's become popular to run an O/X-ring chain, properly tensioned and checked every 2500-3500km. No dirt on your chain or being flung off it all over your bike . . .

Sorry to interrupt the "back, back in the day" reminiscences and anecdotes.

There's little hard data about any advantage to lubing a modern chain. The frictional differences between O/X-ring and non O/X-ring chains are apparently not measurable on a dyno.

Lubing a non O/X-ring chain . . . a good idea. Even more importantly would be making sure that chain is CLEAN before it's lubed with whatever witch's brew you favor (I'm with the fellah who likes gear oil).

Dirt is the abrasive that destroys your sprockets. All of this is more important if the motorbike spends significant time off-road where dirt is more present. Lube on the chain holds the dirt on the chain . . .

On a KTM 950/990 folks regularly get > 30,000km out of an O/X-ring chain without EVER lubing it. Granted, a powerful single cylinder motorbike would get less due to the power pulses of a single vs a twin or multi. But a DRZ is NOT a powerful single.

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Orange, it's the new black.

No advantage in oiling an O-ring chain? You're crazy. The oil will help maintain the o-rings, and reduce wear on the sprockets as the rollers of the chain come on to the teethe at high speed.

And rather than speculating, and passing on stories (some bloke on a ktm...), I'll give you some figures. The last chain I had from new till it was knackered lasted 45,000 miles. I briefly borrowed an identical bike with an identical chain that was on 19k miles, and the chain was already completely knackered. I tightened it up because it was hanging off, and within 200miles it was hanging off again. I was quite lazy looking after that 45k mile chain for the first part of its life so I reckon it could have gone on longer. A guy I know who uses a scott-oiler, but also oils his chain manually most days, got 60,000 miles out of his last c+s. These were road bikes used for despatching.

My theory is that when a chain is looked after, the front sprocket will wear quicker than the chain, and once it deteriorates to a certain level it accelerates the wear on on the chain. The next time I'm looking to get high mileage out of a chain I'm going to replace the front sprocket roughly half way through the predicted life of the chain. Front sprockets are cheap. Food for thought?


The sprocket off my DR350 near the end of my Mongolia trip. Not hard to imagine that it wasn't doing the chain much good.

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UK to Mongolia 2009, on a DR350

I'm one of the bloke(s) on a KTM 950.

And on a DRZ 400. And a Husky TE630 and, just lately on a Husaberg FE570.

I've never lubed an O-ring on a dirt bike or on a bike doing considerable off-road. NEVER.

YOU can find lots of data on chain wear, etc on ADVRider among other sources . . . lubing chains is a hangover of old men recalling (understandably) the poor quality chains of the past. But it's NOT the recent past. Old habits die hard.

Do tell . . . what benefit lubing would provide the O-rings ? Nope. Dirt damages them . . . and lube (other than specific dry lubes) holds dirt.

Do appreciate a photo of evidence that you've rightly abused your machine and chain. Not sure that's very supportive of your position or the merit of following it.

You are correct, of course, that I'm crazy. But not wrong about this.

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Orange, it's the new black.

My my, what an impressive collection of bikes you keep! But how on earth do you find enough time to ride all of them enough to build up any experience of chain wear on them? Or do they just sit in the garage whilst you live out your riding experiences and chain data accumulations via adventure rider forum?

I like to keep moving parts oiled, and seeing as how the o-rings on a drive chain are situated between two moving plates, I find it ideal to keep them oiled. Friction between the o-ring and the plates can only serve to damage the o-ring, reducing it's efficiency in keeping grease in, and dirt out.


Chain maintenance in off-road conditions is a tricky subject. As mentioned previously by somebody above, to some extent a light oil will fling off the chain taking the dirt with it, effectively cleaning the chain. Personally I would oil a chain unless I was planning on riding in a significant amount of sand, or possibly very heavily dry/dusty conditions on gravel or hardpac dirt roads. But probably only the sand (to run a dry chain).

Since you've asserted that lubricating an o-ring chain serves no purpose or advantage at all, could you tell me how you would look after the chain on a bike used predominantly on sealed roads, because it sounds like you're trying to back yourself out of a corner by reiterating your comments but by clarifying them with a 'when off-road' disclaimer. Note the majority of HuBB posters, and 'adventure riders' in general seem to ride in the vast majority on-road, so if you're going prescribe advice suited to riding exclusively off-road and particularly in proper sand, it would be handy to say that.


Personally I quite like getting 40,000+ miles out of a chain and sprockets, so I think I'll keep oiling my chains with engine oil for now. Like o-rings on a drive chain I also require periodic (okay, frequent) lubrication, so I'd better pop off to the offy for some more beeer before they close.

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UK to Mongolia 2009, on a DR350

The O-ring or X-ring is only there to hold the grease in the roller/bush assembly. Lubrication is to slow the wear action of the roller on sprocket.
If the lube is too thin, you risk "washing" the bushes out.

Best lube is some sort of EP oil or if you can get it, chainsaw oil also has long molecules to reduce "fling" and works very well.

John

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Nostradamus Ate My Hamster