Hi,
As Warin said above, don't know if you are motorcycle travellers, or bicycle travellers, but here goes:
When I'm travelling around I like to try and get into 'local' society rather than people who deal with and service the needs of tourists.
That's not always easy to do in Ethiopia.
In most towns there are many people working on the streets who target tourists and try to become 'guides'. Indeed in some towns, Gondar springs to mind, it's almost impossible to wander around on your own to look for a hostal/hotel. Visitors are spotted straightaway by 'guides' and 'escorted' around the town.
Well, those guides were very well dressed, spoke English pretty well, and were very knowledgeable (in my experience) and knew which hostals were full and which had rooms. We went to two places which were on our list only to find them full as the guide had already said, so booked into a third that the guide took us to. It was fine.
And later the guide came back and told us, "On your way here from Sudan you met your friends travelling by bicycle. I just found them, they're at another hostal, I'll show you where!"
And sure enough he led us to another hostal where two cyclists we'd travelled with on-and-off since Egypt had booked in, having been taken there by a different guide. And their hostal was full, they'd taken the last room.
So we thought we got pretty good service from these guides. We'd bump into them occasionally during our stay and they usually had some worthwhile bit of info for us.
But that was Gondar. We'd heard that 'guides' in other places have a bad reputation. So we steered clear of them in Bahir Dar where we knew exactly where we wanted to go anyway, and also in Addis Ababa where we'd heard of fellow travellers being entrapped into very unsavoury situations.
South of Addis we never came across 'guides' again.
But back to 'local society'. One technique I've used is to get a haircut in some local barber shop. That always leads to interesting local contact. I once spent a few months in Guatemala with a girlfriend, and she ventured to try a ladies hairdresser in a small town. First time she'd done that in a foreign country. It took her a lot of courage to do so but she had a great time and we made nice contacts in the town.
But as it turned out I didn't visit any barbers in Ethiopia, which is a pity looking back.
Instead I became a regular customer of street shoe-shine boys. And that was just as good.
Local 'guides' looking out for tourists don't invade the territory, nor clients, of the shoe-shiners, who do an absolutely brilliant job and have lots of interesting info for a visitor.
There seemed to be a culture of street shoe-shine boys, and I'd recommend it as a way of getting off the tourist trail.
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas
In Addis, visit the music and CD shops. They are intensely proud of their musical culture and as a foreigner you'll be treated royally and taught a lot about Ethiopian music.
Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Stories - Ken Thomas
Ditto the 'Folkloric Music Bars' in the smaller towns. If you've not come across Ethiopian music before, acquire some of the 'Ethiopiques' CDs (easily obtainable in the west) and learn a little about the artists. You'll receive huge respect if you show a little knowledge in the music shops and bars.
Also, learn about Ethiopian athletics stars, at least their names. That helps as well. Helped me at the customs entering from Sudan even though I had to be reminded of the top guy's name. :confused1: