I've done a bit of a search and found the usual stuff about changing tyres (soap, standing on the bead, etc). I've just finished putting some TKC80s on my bike and blimey it was hard! Actually it was getting the old tyres off that was the bugger. My bikes an XT with tubes so I expected it not to be too hard, and the front wasn't TOO bad! But the rear damn near killed me!
In the end a combination of two foot tyre levers (designed for vintage cars) a pair of large hiking boots, some WD40 and some language that would have killed a nun at 50 paces got the buggers off!
As I lay in a crumpled, sweaty heap on the garage floor I questioned if I'd be able to do this 'on the road' as it were with my dinky levers etc. I quite often read of people casually remarking on their nth puncture of the day like it was something mildly irksome. Is it going to get easier with practice or is there some canny tricks and gadgets I should be looking into?
The new one went on fairly easily in comparison. (My Enfield was a dream in this respect.)
Matt
PS: Is 'Slime' worth the bother? Does it not clog up the valves?

__________________
http://adventure-writing.blogspot.com

http://scotlandnepal.blogspot.com/

*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!

The problem is usually that the tyre doesn't go far enough into the rim on the opposite side to the side you are working on. Most of it is a case of paying attention to that, lubrication and practice.

I've changed the rear on my DR with short levers and it was no problem at all. But, some tyres are harder to change than others.

Come to the next HUBB meeting and I'm sure there will be demos again. Try to find a friend who can show you. Practice.

__________________
Cheers,
Peter.

Europe to NZ 2006-10

biggest mistake I used to make was putting too much of the tyre onto the rim before attempting to get the last bit on. When you pop the last bit onto the rim, it has to stretch a bit. The smaller that last bit is, the less it'll stretch making it harder. 6-8" remaining is about the time to lever the last section of tyre on.

Taking a break seems to work too. Struggled with a TKC80 for ages. After 15 minutes doing something else it popped on first attempt.

I've heard those TKCs are very difficult too. Perhaps they have a particularly stiff sidewall.

I agree that making sure the opposite side of the tire is pushed well into the rim well is the key. I've only done a few changes - the first couple involved a lot of effort. The last one I relaxed, took my time, lubed it really well with dish soap, and made sure the tire was in the well. It took just 11 minutes to swap tires - not just tubes, and I only used stubby levers. I guess I got smarter, not stronger.

Nice to know I can outwit a rubber doughnut...

As nobody else has mentioned it am I alone in thinking that you shouldn't be using WD40 (or anything else that is oil-based) as a lubricant for this job?

------------------
Johnefyn

__________________
Johnef

Correct for fitting a tyre, but if you take it off then no problem. Just wipe the rim. I use petrol, if it's not too hot.

__________________
Cheers,
Peter.

Europe to NZ 2006-10

Save yourself the hassle and Slime your tyres. Wonderful product. I only had 1 puncture in 75000km between UK and NZ that the Slime didn't sort out despite picking up many nails in my tyres.
Nuff said.

__________________
Rich
www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/richardandlisa
www.youtube.com/richparkie

Some tyres have very stiff side walls that make changes harder. The temperasture also changes things - the warmer teh tyre the more flexable it is.

As someone above said - get the bead into the centre of the rim to make things as easy as possible.

I've had so many flats I no longer need to practice. Oh - if you use that slime stuff .. take spare tubes .. patching slimed tubes is not something I'd try again.

__________________
---
Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S

Lot's of good advice in this thread. I would not use WD40 or other volitile solvents to mount tires with tubes. I have personaly seen tires go flat from disentigrated new tubes after being mounted with solvents. Good old soap and water works. Slime works on tubless tires but on tube type you should carry new tubes as some of the slime type sealers make getting a patch to stick really difficult. If you are riding where cactus is a problem slime type sealants are really worth while. If you have trouble breaking the beads loose on tubless tires use the short stick long stick method. Put a short stick right on the bead of the tire next to the rim and then lay a long stick over that and hook it under a car bumber or rock ledge and press down on the long end of the stick. Works even with car tires. Email me for a photo of this procedure. Tires can be changed, right now I work in a shop where we have a $4500.00 tire machine but I have changed hundreds of tires with a spray bottle of soapy water and two middling tire irons. Just take your time and if thigs get to difficult stop and try something slightly different. And do practice at home rather than in a rainstorm with clouds of mosquitoes and no help for many miles.

One more on lubricants: solvents are a no-no, but petrol works. We used it in our bike workshop in NZ. On the road you alway have some with you, unless you ride a diesel Enfield. Use a rag to apply it. You need lots, but be careful.

__________________
Cheers,
Peter.

Europe to NZ 2006-10

Its definitely technique not strength. Rich did you have tubes? I though those modern Jap bikes were free of such anachronisms.

When putting the tube valve stem in, I push both sides of the tyre into the well and slip it into the hole from above then flick the top edge of the tyre over it. Much easier than trying to force it between tyre edge and rim. Soap seems fine as a lubricant.

I have had trouble breaking the bead on a rear XT600 once, it ended up in a vice!

__________________
Close to Antarctica and a long way from reality

Matt I use a set of aussie tyrepliers with two small home made adapter plates to suit my bike (ktm 950 this bike has the worst rear tyre bead retainer of them all believe me its a killer) however with the tyre pliers and three 6 inch levers I can break the bead in 3 to 4 mins remove the tyre in about 4 or 5 mins the beadbreaker tool is excellent - with practice !. it weighs very little and is easy to tie wrap onto the bike i keep mine under the seat pan above the rear wheel never know it was there. I am not so far from Edinburgh (Alnwick) if you want to try this out or look at it let me know and we will arrange a meet up and you can have a try before you buy so to speak.

[This message has been edited by adventure950 (edited 16 January 2006).]

Can I add a PS to my previous remarks re the use of WD40, please? As my bike has tubed tyres I hadn't thought of it being used for removing tubeless tyres and was therefore only thinking of possible problems with its effect on tubes. I've no gripe with using it on tubeless.

When I do change tyres/tubes I first of all use soapy water and then take it to the local garage's airline in the car to seat the tyre in the rim. It NEVER seats properly, one side or the other never centralizes (with the raised guide line running parallel with the edge of the wheel) so every sodding time I have to let all the air out and put the garage's tyre lubricant goo on before trying again and again. Yes, the rim is clean and without nasty patches of corrosion.

Am I alone in having this grief every time?

Incidentally, I always use the standard BMW toolkit tyre levers, they're about six or seven inches long (150/175mm)and find them perfectly adequate once I've broken the seal between tyre and wheel. For that I just follow the suggestion in the rider's handbook and use the centre stand to press the tyre away from the wheel. The thing is with that, though, is that by tilting the bike I often end up breaking off the little extension on the left hand side of the centre stand, the one you use to push the stand down initially with your foot before you put the bike on its stand. Does anyone else have this problem, is it me?

Cheers

------------------
Johnefyn

__________________
Johnef

You may need to over-pressurize the tire to make it seat.You should hear two distinct popping noises as the beads seat.Lots of lube and a blast of compressed air should do the trick.Sometimes,riding on the tire may be the only way to make it seat properly.Also,using real tire lube helps, but tire shops in most places around the world still use soapy water.

I forgot to mention that my bike is an '82 BMW RS with alloy tubed wheels.

Vast over pressure is what I usually resort to, as much as 80 to 90 lbs/sq in. Dear God, that shouldn't be necessary, should it? The lube they have is a big tub of softish soap, you use it with a wet brush and get smearing, it's what they use to fit the tyres in the garage. Should I be using something else, then?

------------------
Johnefyn

__________________
Johnef