Curbsyde and Hillcityrider,
Might I interject here? I am unbalanced in my love for the country and the people of
Peru as I have grown up there and then returned to serve and raise my family there (two of my daughters are born Peruanas, one natural, one adopted). Although we live in Maine now, I even took my 17 yr old son on a 10,000 km bike trip begining and ending in Peru for his "coming of age" event.
So I have 25 to 30 years (depending how it is added up) experience of living in all areas of Peru, and there is SOOOOO much more than Machu Picchu !
First: What are you riding? Each or 2-up? That will make a difference on what is available to you as far as roads...
Obviously, you are coming from the north, probably thru Ecuador... Only travel the coast WHEN NECESSARY. It is mostly boring and SOME police are on the lookout for Gringos to lighten their wallets ( I would LOVE to see a sting against these guys as it ruins many bikers impression of Peru as a whole. Remember it was the Spaniard who came to strip Peru of it's gold and leave, the indian recieved the foriegner with open arms....
Up north, travel inland to Cajamarca (beautiful city, more colonial and less-touristy than Cuzco. Take a side trip to Chachapoyas to see some of the mountain jungle and the 3rd highest waterfall in the world nearby.
Also, Jeff Powers, owner of the "Norton Rats Tavern" in Cuzco is building a new place (tavern and hostel) right close in San Pablo (not on most maps or googleearth, but very close to Chachapoyas). He should be done by then. The "Norton Rats" places are designed to cater to adventure bikers.
Then make your way to Caraz and Huaraz (the Peruvian Swiss Alps). From there you can head down to Lima on the coast, but I would stay inland and take the road from Huaraz, thru La Union, and over to Huanuco (the "City of Eternal Spring"). Then beautiful highway up into the pampas between the two ridges and on to Huancayo (famous for their crafts and animal husbandry, not to mention the beautiful landscapes).
From Huancayo (depending on the type of bike you have), you can head east to the coast and Cerro Azul and Canete (world famous for surfing and coastal haciendas) and down the coast before heading back up to Cuzco via Arequipa. Or if you are more adventurous, from Huancayo on to Ayacucho (the birthplace of South American independence - Battle of Ayacucho) and the Huari pre-Inca culture. Then on to Andahuaylas and meeting the highway again into Cuzco near Abancay. See my website on our recent trip this route:
Around the Block 2007 |
There are many other valuable detours:
(1) From Huancayo down past Tarma and to Oxapampa, the German/Austrian colony town where they maintain all their european traditions.
(2) From Cuzco down to Puerto Maldonado and the Manu rainforest reserve (and on to Brazil - all highway once you enter Brazil).
SO MUCH beauty in Peru. The prices are right and the people warm....
Any questions????
Toby (charapa)
Around the Block 2007 |