HI Helen
the fuel isn't quite as cheap as it has been in the past, they are charging about 40 pence (60 cents) a litre. And although you're supposed to have a fuel card, the fuel attendants are quite happy to use their own cards.
as for the head scarf stuff, I just wear it under my helmet and also my chador is on all the time, which makes it easier when I'm getting off the bike as I don't have to scrabble around for stuff to cover up with. And the people standing around can instantly see I'm female which can be helpful.Tthe police were very nice when they caught me speeding, just gently asked me to slow down.
I've managed to cool down a bit by going for a dip in the Caspian Sea, though as the official segregated bathing areas aren't open yet, it was an open beach and I had to wear head covering and chador over leggings  . I actually found that my bike balaclava worked best in the water as it was close fitting to the head. I then piled my bike gear back on top of my wet stuff and rode straight back to the hotel to get changed in my room.
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