Hi all!
We're currently in Nairobi, Kenya (Jungle Junction) and just completed one year of Africa. We started in Morocco arrived in Cape Town after 9 months and now we're on our way to Europe, Romania on East Coast. We crossed the following countries: Morocco, Mauritania, Mali, Burkina, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Congo Brazzaville, Congo Kinshasa, Zambia (yes... we crossed from Kinshasa to Lubumbashi), Namibia, SAR (+ Lesotho), Botswana, Zambia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya without a carnet. Each country issued some sort of Temporary Import Permit so it's possible to do it with out it. In Mauritania and Tanzania the customs officer stamped also my passport. All the process was hassle free and pretty easy.
Morocco - Tanger Med - free, just registered at customs
Mauritania - 10E when entered and asked and payed 10E at exit but just because was the first weeks in Africa. In reality you don't need to pay twice
Mali - Gogui - 10000CFA Laissez Passer (normaly 5000CFA but we arrived on Sunday) + 5000CFA police registration of the LP
Burkina Faso - Koro - 5000CFA LP
Togo - Senkanse - 5000CFA LP
Benin - ?? Near Aneho - 5000CFA LP
Nigeria - Seme - 7000 Naira at Seme Border (1000 bribe to stamp passports, 4000 TIP, 2000 Bribes in order not to pay a bond); apparently at Nikki the TIP is free; payed 1000 Naira to extend the TIP for a second month at Mfum
Cameroon - Ekok - 7500CFA 15 days Laissez Passer (no one checked that it had long expired when we exited)
Gabon - Bitam - 10000CFA LP after hours fee (normally 5000CFA until 6 PM)
Congo - ?? Doussala - 10000CFA LP(asked 20000 but negotiated to 10000 - probably possible for 5000)
DR Congo - entered through a small border near Luozi and managed to pay nothing; exited through Kasumbalesa and managed not to go to Customs (very big border post); is not recommended to do so as you can have to haggle to exit (it happened to us in Benin)
Zambia - Kasumbalesa - TIP Free, Road Tax 50000 Kwacha (can avoid paying it)
Namibia - Katima Mullilo - No TIP, just road Tax 140 Nam$
SAR - Vioolsdrif - nothing just waived through
Lesotho - Sani Pass - There's 30 Rand bike tax but we've payed 100 Rand for visas, tax and everything
Bothswana - Grobler's Bridge - 240 Pula (Auch) Permit, Road Tax and Insurance (no papers just a receipt) other reports suggest that this practice is random
Zambia - Kazungula - TIP Free, Road Tax 50000 Kwacha (can avoid paying it, second time we didn't pay)
Mozambique - Cassacatiza - 27 Meticals TIP yeah that's almost 1US$
Tanzania - Unity Bridge - 25 USD TIP
Kenya - Taveta - 20 USD TIP

Also in Nairobi we've just applied successfully for the Ethiopian Visa (20 US$ pp) after asking the ambassador and kindly explaining our story.

Will report our experience with the following countries.

Cheers,

Ionut

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Crazy Oyibo - From Romania Into the World.
Part I - Africa Full Circle http://blog.intotheworld.eu

Thank you .. nice report (and helpful to many ... interesting to see how you progress further northwest
Anyway, always welcome ... N 24º12.943 E 035º25.503
(the only XT660Z 2009, fully imported to egypt
cheers

Totally helpful - thanks for posting.

Have been following your ride - very, very cool.

Be safe & Ride on.

Sean

Ok so we made it without a CpD!

Ethiopia - Moyale - Free (just completed a form (TIP) and asked for a copy of the registration paper)
Sudan - Metema - 15 Sudanese Pounds for TIP (~3USD).
Egypt - Aswan - Now the funny part: 2500EgP (410USD) for a CpD from the Auto Club of Emirates with 2 pages. Egypt is insanely expensive if you travel with your vehicle; besides Cpd we've payed some extra 700Egp (115USD) to enter from Sudan (Custom clearance, plates, licence, fixer commission) and 2150EgP(350USD) to exit towards Turkey (1250 Custom Clearance, 750 Shipping Agent Commission, 150 Storage in Port Said)

So after 420 days in Africa we've payed 625USD in order to cross without Carnet de Passage. Way cheaper than the 500Euro/year +10000Euro deposit asked by the ACR thieves in Romania. Even if you make a carnet with ADAC (the cheapest option in EU) you still pay ~200E/Year + 3000E deposit (that's ~150E interest if you keep the deposit in your account). Not to mention that with a Cpd you'll be asked for money at a lot of borders in order to stamp it.

Without this useless piece of paper you're stress free if you want to travel around Africa and you don't have a strict schedule (more than one year). Except for Egypt all borders are "hassle" free if you use your common sense and you engage in conversation with the customs people. If you use fixers than you'll be ripped off by everybody and you'll be treated like a walking wallet.

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Crazy Oyibo - From Romania Into the World.
Part I - Africa Full Circle http://blog.intotheworld.eu

Thank you Mr. White,

I have followed parts of you trip here on the HUBB, you are a very good photographer and your reports are very good to read. Thank you for sharing it.

In 2004/2005 I traveled a similar route to yours thru Africa on an XT600Tenere using a CDP for some of the borders. But I promised myself the next time I go to Africa I wont have a CDP (because I just hate the ADAC, which is a long story itself).

Thank you for showing everybody here on the HUBB that it is possible (except for Egypt).

Here is your quote in red, because I think it is important for some travellers to read.

Saludos and all the best

Mika from Salta Argentina

Thanks for posting this thread.

A real eye-opener, after my own London - Cairo - Cape Town ride in 2010 - very much with CdP.

I came to like Africa very much on my journey and it's nice to read positive reports about the continent, rather than negative ones that don't seem to tie in with my experiences.

It's often occurred to me - how did this whole CdP system come about and what purpose does it really serve? Specially if the most protective country (Egypt) doesn't insist on it?
I've never researched this, but I wonder, is it just a means for the FIA to make money out of providing an unnecessary layer of bureaucracy in league with those countries that were persuaded by the FIA to do so?

Haven't seen your blog yet but will do so soon following the recommendations posted here.
Cheers

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TTR250 - London to Cape Town

The CDP, IDP, driving licence etc actually do you more harm than good as you're admitting jurisdiction to foreign governments. You already have the common law right to travel, and by applying for these documents, you're actually giving up the common-law rights you already had.

I started discovering this on a lightning 5-week blitz from UK to SA via the Middle-East in 2010 (no bribes, just offers). Now I drive on private plates, never get stopped and actually get waved though traffic stops (in South Africa).

When you register with a government or agency, you grant them power over you. It's all contract and in the fine-print. Usually the document you sign says something like: "I have read the BLAH act and I understand it.". You need to comprehend that the word "understand" actually means "to stand under", or "to submit to".

If you don't sign their paperwork they lack the standing in law to prosecute you, so now it's just down to how you handle their private offer for you to produce paperwork/pay a bribe/etc. It's just a private offer to contract.

All officials operate (apply statutes) on foreigners based on presumption only.

See my related post:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-south-60808#4

PS: Don't be stupid. Try this on the small stuff first. Do your homework.

"Now the funny part" Thank you Mr White for the informative update. My wife and I are having problems getting into Egypt from Israel without a Carnet and you mentioned you were able to buy one from the Auto Club of the Emirates. They will not respond to my emails when I enquire about the possibility of purchasing a Carnet. Customs officials in Taba told us to get on the boat to Nuweiba where they "promise" us we could sort it out. Anyone have any reliable, current information?
In Carnet Limbo
Beth and Irish

Mr White, thanks so much. Carnet was big problem for me, now its past. I will go to the Capetown west side off Africa. Thanks man, again, cheers from Belgrade, Serbia.

Isaac, I think I saw your motorcycle in the center off the Belgrado, Serbia on the front hostel. I waiting half ours and left a letter with my cell number (because I always I want to welcome and help adv bikers , but you did not call. I hope we can meet somewhere, maybe in Spain when I started my African trip.

I cross Taba border last JANUARY-2013,FROM Egypt to Israel with No Carnet just T.I.P(temporary,import,papers from Aswan border)I paid refundable $800usd for this TIP at Aswan border,it was not easy,it took me couple days,you need a lot patiance and smiles,it worked for me.
10 days later I rode up US register Motorbike European Passport to border crossing Taba asking for my $800usd refundable deposit,they also told me to go on boat to Nuweiba,but were is my $,they said again,Nuweiba (border crossing by boat with Jordan)So when I got to Nuweiba(aporx70km one way) they ask me where do I want to go, Israel or Jordan? I said Israel,they said you have to go back to Taba,What about my Refund $800usd for TIP? Taba border crossing have it,I ask them to call Taba In front of me to make sure they have my MONEY,They said"yes we have it,come back"
So when I got there(second time) everthing was nice and smooth, custom manager said "Im sorry here is your refund"
What I learned traveling around continent Africa border crossing you have to be Nice,Polite,consistent,patient.
It worked for me.

Cheers guys!
Happy this thread I've started is not dead and the info is shared as it should be.
All I did was to take a leap of faith as we all do when we embark on such an adventure. I did my homework at first and realized that at least on a bike it should be possible to find a way to cross without CpD. I just got stuck or ripped of in Egypt but still worth every penny.
Beth and Irish; I got my CpD through kamal fixer in Aswan. I tried to contact by my self the Egyptian club by no luck. Apparently the guy that came with my CpD was a club worker in Hurgada. He was wiling to drive to Aswan to deliver the CpD as the fuel is cheap and he was receiving a hefty part of the amount I paid. Why and how was my CpD issued by the emirate club will remain a mystery.
Take care all and keep the adventure alive! (Sry for the late reply but we are still traveling although Africa is deeply engraved in our hearts and hope to get back there sometime in the future)

__________________
Crazy Oyibo - From Romania Into the World.
Part I - Africa Full Circle http://blog.intotheworld.eu

Please forgive my ignorance but what does "CFA" in the Africa without a Carnet post refer to.
Thanks, Beth

CFA franc - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Not to mention that with a Cpd you'll be asked for money at a lot of borders in order to stamp it."

NOT TRUE AT ALL.

I was never asked for any stamping fee for my Carnet in my 3 year African trip. There was sometimes a road tax or something that you paid regardless (Tanzania/Kenya), but never anything for entering with the carnet. I did the same countries as you plus quite a few more.

In a few cases there were audible sighs of disappointment when I produced it, as it mean't no opportunity for them to pocket a few dollars.

It made borders much easier I found - no need to talk to anybody, just get a stamp in and out (if they could be bothered doing it!).

Overall I think having a internationally recognised document is a great way of approaching things - I had 3 altogether, new ones sent out when the old one was going to expire, I'm not sure why you mention a one year limit?

However, I agree that the way the carnet system is handled for travellers is stupidly expensive and restrictive. Why is it valid for 12 months - why not 24 or 17 or 29 months? That alone cost me an extra £1,000 in having to have two new carnets couriered to me. F'ing stupid numbers on a piece of paper that caused me endless stress and money.

You have a bike though???

It seems easier with a bike - having a 4x4 like me I was clearly told that Kenya wouldn't allow you in without a carnet? Angola wouldn't give me a visa because my carnet would expire when I was going to be in the country (i.e.: I needed one to apply). Saudi would only give me a visa with the carnet etc.

My overall opinion was that it was much easier to have a carnet, but if I did the trip again I wouldn't use one due to the high costs and hassles when it expires.

If a carnet was £50 and valid for 5 years it would be a no brainer.

Im in Israel now,I cross 22countrys from Maroco - Cape town-Cario riding Us register bike.
with out Carnet,I took advise from Mrwhite,When, you coming to Egypt from Sudan ask for TIP and pay $800 Refundable-Deposit which I got back to the penny when I left Egypt to Israel,lost $70 when I exchange from Egypt money to Us$,make sure you exchange on Egypt side NOT Israel.
its a lot better than Canada carnet that cost $750 non refundable
+ other horseshit. and Kenya border,easy dont stop at customs and just ride using the other gate like 25,000 miles with Luke and Nick Did.

Thank you Mrwhite,Luke and Nick.