svenpwrenn,
Sorry, no advice - just to let you know that I'll be trying China in 2007. Probably from Mongolia but maybe Kazakstan. Like you I don't really want a guide if I can help it. So if all else fails I will just rock up at the border and wing with as much official paperwork as I can find. But in the mean time I have about 18 months to try to find the cheapest official way in. Watch this space. Mind you, I was intending to leave China and enter Vietnam. But it would seem that Vietnam is even harder than China to get into with a bike. Ultimately, if you don't ask, you don't get and anyway if they don't let us in we can always ship out of Ulaanbaatar.
Hmmm... if no Vietnam, Laos or North Korea?
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