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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



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Old 7 Jul 2024
Contributing Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona USA
Posts: 124
Update July 2024:
June 30: Exit Iran, enter Pakistan at Taftan crossing. Usual expected runaround with documents, stamps, etc. Levies give the choice of staying at a guesthouse or with them. I choose the Levies compound. Its hot and dirty, but free and the Levies were very kind and gave me water, offered to get food, etc. Slept outside.
July 1: 7am we depart Taftan, bound for Quetta. I am with a couple of sedans and 4 big tour buses. It is very hot and windy, and we encounter a sandstorm about an hour into the journey. Speeds are reasonable for me, 80-90 kph. At the first checkpoint (mid-sandstorm) I had to write my passport & visa details in a logbook. Thereafter, at any checkpoint they just photographed me, my passport and visa.
The stops were very brief and there wasn't really time to eat, barely time to drink water. Heeding advice in the previous posts, I did pack a kilo of dried fruit, dates and nuts, and extra water. I couldn't drink water fast enough, and soon ran out. One of the bus drivers took pity and would bring me water during the stops, when he could. I developed a bit of a fan club among the passengers who would come to chat during stops and would sometimes bring cold water.
Just after midday there was a lunch stop for about 40 minutes, during which the bus passengers wanted to ask me a bunch of questions, take selfies with me, etc. And I just want to rest, eat food and continue dumping water down my throat.
The day continued....high heat, wind and sand, very brief breaks and several escort changes. After 15 hours we reached the edge of Quetta, the rest of the group peeled off and I followed several escorts to the Bloom Star hotel, where I checked in for 2 nights, feeling mentally and physically spent.
July 2: Sleep in, eventually get contacted by security and we go get the NOC, and after a bit i wrangle an escort to an ATM and mobile shop for a sim card. The escorts in town involved me being sandwiched between 2 AK-toting guys, on a 150cc Honda. Again, there are several escort changes as one escort reaches the edge of their "district" and they call for someone to come and take responsibility for me for the next one. At one point, the escort guy said if I didn't fill up their motorcycles with petrol, it would be a 60-90 minute wait until the next vehicle could show up. I just said "No thanks", and 5 minutes later we were on the move.

All missions accomplished over several hours. Front desk helps me order food for delivery.


July 3: 6am departure for Sukkur, actually on time. We move a dozen meters, then stop & wait for 10 minutes. Several escort changes later we're on the highway, going 50kph. This is the standard rate of speed all day. The escort vehicles smoke badly, the road surface changes to dirt occasionally, and the weather is hot and humid. Whenever we're stopped for more than 20 seconds, I am drinking water and eating dates. Some of the escort changes are "rolling", where they wave me on to follow another vehicle that is already on the move. As we approach Sukkur, the escorts get a little more lenient..."Just ride to the next checkpoint, and promise not to stop, ok?" Eventually at the edge of Sukkur, the escort just waves me on to...no one? Sweet freedom! I find a hotel on iOverlander, but they are full and direct me to another hotel around the corner. They also help me order food for delivery, and after eating I flop out with the AC and ceiling fan on High.

July 4 (Independence Day for USA) Everyone is asleep at 6 when I am up and ready to roll. I just leave the key and room payment on the front desk, making sure jts within view of the security camera. No security, no cops...understand that in this region, foreigners are not really allowed to travel without armed escort. But there I was! I stopped for gas and headed out onto the highway. Garmin wanted to route me onto the expressway, where motorcycles are forbidden. I got lost trying to find the regular highway, and asked a couple of guys for guidance. After a discussion they decided they would hop on a small motorbike and guide me somewhere. We ended up at the entrance to the expressway (I appreciated, but did not share, their optimism). The cop there had good English and said..."where is your escort?" He sat me in front of a fan and had someone get me a cup of cold water while he figured out what to do with me. He decided to photograph me and my passport and send me on my way, instructing the 2 original guys to guide me to the regular highway. I offered them a little thank you gift and they refused. To my immense surprise I rode the rest of the way to Multan without an escort. I even waved to the guys at the checkposts and they just waved back. I stopped for gas, food and cold beverages at will, and met very welcoming, hospitable people. In Multan, the first hotel I went to was full, the 2nd said they weren't allowed to accept foreigners, but the expensive hotel up the street could. So I go there... reception asked where my escort is. I told my tale and they basically said the fun is over, you're back on the radar pal. Had a pleasant and relatively expensive stay.

July 5: I consume an excellent breakfast and am ready to roll at 730. Sorry, escort won't be ready for 30-40 minutes. No problem, the coffee is good and paid for. 30 minutes later....sorry it will be another 30 minutes. Reception asked would i mind sitting for a short video describing my pleasant stay at the hotel? Ummm, ok sure. Finally we start moving at 930. I spend the day looking at the back of beat, smoking Toyota Hilux pickups. 13 hours later, well after sunset, they leave me at the edge of Islamabad, with rain threatening. It's a wild ride to my guesthouse, and with 5 minutes to go, the heavens open up and I get absolutely drenched. My Garmin nav starts acting up but eventually I get to where I need to go, but end up going into the wrong guesthouse & getting a room for 7 nights. It wasn't until the next day that I realized I was in the wrong place.

Summary:
Day 1: Exit Iran/enter Pakistan. Spend night at Levies compound. Note: Exchange for rupees when you can, just USD$100 worth for food and fuel over the next 1 or 2 days until you get to Quetta.
Day 2: Extremely long and tiring day, Taftan to Quetta. Don't underestimate how taxing this leg will be. Probably my most mentally and physically exhausting day of riding, ever.
Day 3: Logistics and rest day in Quetta. Get NOC, rupees and sim card.
Day 4: Quetta to Sukkur.
Day 5: Sukkur to Multan (escort-free for me!)
Day 6: Multan to Islamabad. Long, grueling day. But once you're in Islamabad, you're free to travel and roam the city like a regular person.


The whole escort requirement is very frustrating with the low speeds, smoking vehicles and unpredictable stops, but with very few exceptions, the Pakistani security personnel and civilians are super friendly and supportive. Just when I was cursing under my breath at the absurdity of it all, a Pakistani would appear next to me with a smile, and a bottle of cold water, asking "What is your good name, sir?"
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