Having rode through the western part of China last year, I can say it is a lot better than motorieters trip in 2008

Although the Chinese gov did stuff up our whole trip prep and changed the route, we still managed to ride.

Our guide was driven by a couple in our group who had a 4WD, so we saved on car and driver cost. We were allowed to ride between each lodging by our selves, the only stipulation being that before entering the destination town/city, we waited for the guide at the outskirts. As he knew the area, it made our trip all the better, no need for navigation, just head for a town and wait. We could stop at our leisure, take photos etc whatever, but there are many police and/or military checkpoints, so if we were stopped, the 4wd normally caught us up and if there were any dramas, our guide fixed them

I think it is worth the hassle, even though the Chinese drivers got their driving abilities from the cornflakes packet, they are shocking drivers and quite suicidal

But, other than that, it can be fun.

Note, I only rode Xianxang province, where we were allowed to ride on the interstate, in fact we had no real choice, it is the only road that crosses the Gobi desert. In the east, interstates/highways and toll roads are off limits to motorbikes. This means you are shunted along with the trucks onto the secondary roads. From 1st hand accounts, these can be a bit scary, especially the hilly territory as all the trucks constantly keep their brakes cool with water, which means oily water at every turn, so it may be a bit slippery.

Cheers
TS

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