I had a week or so riding from Ha Giang to Bao Loc 7 or 8 months ago. It was absolutely fantastic! It's my favourite part of Vietnam.
You'll definitely need a permit as you'll be asked for it at every hotel you stay at and I think you can only get it in Ha Giang. I got it at the Immigration office in town (sorry I can't exactly remember where it is and was a bit of a pain to find) but a very easy process.
I was riding around on my own but met some other foreigners so we rode together. We didn't take a guide and you certainly won't need one. Didn't see any other foreigners till I got back to Hanoi. Good times.
The scenery is stunning! Have fun
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