I went through there July last year. Fantastic route, highly recommended.
Important things to note:
- Pakistan visa is very difficult to get outside your home country - most embassies will flatly refuse. Even if you do run around for weeks there's no guarantee, particularly in Delhi. I have heard of an Aussie couple who managed to get 15 day visas in Kathmandu, which they could extend in-country.
- The border crossing at Wagah is quite stressful, particularly with all the nay-saying on the Indian side. It's worth arriving the day before and checking out the daily closing ceremony.
- Get in touch with the Motorcycling Association of Pakistan (MAP). They put us up for the night and offered us meals, and put us in touch with people in every part of the country. Wonderful hospitality.
- The KKH is an amazing road, but be prepared for delays - we were stuck near Passu for a week due to the road being washed away. Information is very difficult to come by up there.
- China requires a guide and permit to pass through with a vehicle (there have been rumblings for a while of working around it, but I'm still not aware of a general rule allowing it - only people who've 'got away with it'). We used Kashgar New Land International. Mixed results with them, some things were decent but there were some minor issues with guides etc. In a group of 6 (4 riders and a 4WD), costs started at around $900USD per person for a 4 day crossing. With a weeks' delay due to the road closure above, they had to reapply for the permits which cost us an extra $500USD per person.
- Border crossing from Pakistan, on the Chinese side only, was a nightmare for us. 8+ hours of being yelled at by jumped-up so-and-sos, having everything searched multiple times, etc etc. One of the worst borders we encountered, including all of Central Asia.
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