Sorry, post became a bit long.

Last July I started my trip from The Netherlands to Cape Town. I choose the east route through the Middle East because I wanted to visit Iran and I like east Africa. Plan is to cross into Africa with the ferry from Saudi Arabia to Sudan. When I left the Netherlands, this looked very possible.

When demonstrations in Iran started, I re-thought the route and searched for alternatives (I was in Greece that moment). The alternatives I found did (and don’t) seem to work. Egypt because of Carnet requirements I can’t comply with (30000 euros in the bank). I did have a look at Syria but I didn't find any recent information.

So, I decided to stick with the original plan to go through Iran. I got the Carnet from Adac and went to Ankara for my Iran visa.

When traveling east in Turkey things in Iran started to escalate a bit. I Changed my trip and went into Iraq Kurdistan to enter Iran as south as possible. That is where I am now (Sulaymaniyah). For now, I plan to cross the border with Iran tomorrow. The whole idea of thoroughly visiting Iran is gone and I will just go as soon as possible south to get the Ferry to the Emirates.

But I am not sure anymore. Yesterday I spoke with a nice guy in the hotel and he told me not to go to Iran. They will think I am a spy and put me in jail just because I am western. Sounds ridiculous but not the first time a hear or read this. He was pretty convincing. He also told me not to go to Iraq (in Kurdistan they consider Iraq a different country) as it is very dangerous. He advised me to go through Syria.

I still believe that me on a motorbike, clearly a traveller that can prove this with “polar steps” app and pictures, and will skip the cities and not being involved in any what is happening should be fine. Is there someone with real current knowledge of current Iran if this is correct? Is it possible to travel through Iran?

If Iran is really not an option I see 2 alternatives:

Iraq -> Saudi -> Sudan. Skipping a few countries and this means flying to Bagdad to get my visa. I need to check how this works with the bike.

Syria -> Jordan -> Saudi Arabia -> Sudan. I would prefer this route but there is very little information about Syria (Ioverlander app does not even have any info on Syria). Also, when riding in Turley near the border with Syria I saw the smoke of Turkish bombing (revenge from the terrorist attack in Istanbul a few weeks ago). I am not sure Syria is wise.
I feel a bit stuck now. Hope someone here can give some insight. Or maybe there is an alternative that I missed.

My simplistic take is that when you 'feel' something isn't right it means there is doubt. When there is doubt, there is no doubt and I've altered my plans accordinly. Listen to your gut IMHO.

Consider a total, clear rethink as to the purpose/reasons of your trip.
Or maybe in 2 little words... Go West!

Thanks.

It is not that I am feeling doubt. I am pretty positive it would be not an issue. It is other people that advice me not to go to Iran. As I am aware that I can be very naïve i have learned to listen to other people, That is why I am checking if Iran is really a no go at the moment.

I am in the east of Iraq. Going the west route is not an option anymore.

Hello Roland,

welcome to the HUBB.

Sorry, but I dont have any current knowledge of the situation in Iran. And I am on the other side of the world, in South America. Still I want to give you a short answer to your questions, its my experience out of many years of traveling.

The last time I was in in Iran was in 1999, it was an amazing place with amazing people and I would not hesitate to go there again tomorrow. But I dont know if you can enter tomorrow and get through.

The last time I was in Syria was in 2009, this was about six months before the war started, and I had my bike stolen in Damaskus. I met amazing people and I can tell you a lot of stories trying to get my bike back. But I dont think i would go back there tomorrow because of the war/conflict.

As you are maybe aware, before the invasion of Irak in 2003 a lot of western 'travelers', obviously spies working for the western military helped to lay the groundwork for the invasion. I dont want to go into details, but of course Iran knows that and is very suspicious of travelers, and has always been. So the chance of being interrogated in Iran is real. But I wouldnt be scared of that.

Being in your situation to get to Saudi, I would choose Iran.

But my advise is the same as Toyarks above. Listen to your gut feeling. And if this means turning around, turn around. I have turned around.

Which ever way you go, take no pictures of buildings and infrastructure and of course dont use a drone.

Nice bike you got. All the best. Saludos mika

Syria is doable (with a guide - details on the TripAdvisor Syria forum). At least one motorcyclist did this last year. The Turkey - Syria border is closed, you need to go via ferry to Lebanon and enter from there.

You could fly to Baghadad, get an Iraq visa, return to your bike in Erbil / Sulaymainyah and head off to Jordan or Kuwait. I spent 3.5 weeks earlier this year touring southern Iraq, a lovely experience. Many others have visited since then, I regard it as safe.

Iran, I have not been to since January but I have a lot of experience travelling there as a lone male (the worst thing to be), and in some very out-of-the way parts.

My advice would be to be a tourist, by which I mean:

Stick to the main Gringo Trail (join as soon as you can) Tabriz - Tehran - Kashan - Esfahan - Yazd - Shiraz etc. Entering from Iraqi Kurdistan may not be a wise idea, as the violence seems to be worst in Kordestan and Kermanshah provinces of Iran (Sanandaj, Mahabad, Javanrud etc.), which is where you will enter. If you do choose to enter from Iraqi Kurdistan, I would cross at Piranshahr and head north out of Kordestan to Urmia in West Azerbaijan province. From there, you can join the Gringo Trail at Tabriz. however, this route will take you through Mahabad where there have been violent clashes and Saqqez which is the hometown of the young lady whose death triggered the current protests.

Don't camp - stay in hotels in the main cities. Camping alone out in the desert is seen as very suspicious at any time.

If you get 'arrested' by the security forces, remain calm I found it was quite routine in out-of-the-way places to be taken to a police station for some light questioning. This does not mean you will be incarcerated. Showing them some fancy app with a route through Iraq will be opening Pandora's Box - the Iranian militias are currently bombing Kurdish 'terrorist' camps in Iraqi Kurdistan. Coming from that place is hardly likely to make you look like a normal tourist.

If you want to go to Iran, which I would still regard as doable, I would enter from Turkey, at Bazargan (a busy border crossing which normal tourists use) or Razi (quiet and easy, but out of the way). But. seeing as you will just fly through Iran without seeing anything, I would try the Iraq option.

EO

__________________
EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

Thanks Mika and Eurasiaoverland.

This helps!

I intentionally went south to enter Iran Kurdistan as south as possible to be able to leave the Kurdistan province as soon as possible (to Kermanshah). I better could have sticked to my original plan and enter in Iran in Turkey.

@eurasiaoverland For the Iraq option. Getting the bike into Iraq Kurdistan was easy (no temp import or Carnet). I guess you did not enter Iraq from Kurdistan, any paperwork that you had to do at the border that is different and that I need to organise so no issues when leaving Iraq in the South?

Thanks

Kermanshah is not in Kordestan province, but it is still in the Kurdish region. In fact, Kermanshah is the biggest city in the Kurdish-majority region of Iran. There were violent clashes in Javanrud last week, which is a town between the Iraq border and Kermanshah city.

You could try the Parvez Khan border crossing into Iran, but this is very rarely used by foreigners (I have never crossed here). That would get you into the south of Kermanshah province, from where it is a beautiful, sparsely populated drive to Ilam. You could then head for Khorramabad and Isfahan.

I entered from Iran near Basra, but I have read accounts on the FB Middle East Overland page of people who got their Iraq visa at Baghdad airport, and exited Iraq with the customs document they got at Ibrahim Khalil border. I'm not sure how legal this method is, but it seems to work.

EO

__________________
EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

This is an option. I thought that place was outside Kurdistan but it is not. Seems an awful border crossing according Google reviews but I am not scared of that. I have all the paperwork done.

Thanks, I will try that border if that not works I can always go back.

I would not worry too much about the reviews - almost all Iranian borders are awful. You've passed through Habur/Ibrahim Khalil which is one of my most hated border crossings, the Iranian border crossing will be less awful than that, I imagine.

Interested to hear your experience, please do post it here.

EO

__________________
EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

One thing came to mind - I would advise you to approach Parviz Khan from the north. It's not clear to me exactly where Kurdish control ends, but that area immediately to the south, around Khanaqin/Jalawla is definitely in Diyala governorate, which is perhaps the least secure in the country.

__________________
EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

I think you are right and that this border crossing is not used that much by foreigners. They really did not know what to do with me.

The ride to the border took much longer than I thought. Lots of roadworks and detours. I tried to arrive from the north but when I was on that road the police advised against it. A very quiet police post with the friendliest people but they did not understand my visa and that needed calling and sending pictures. Was offered food and drinks. After half an hour I could go but needed to turn around as the road from the north is bad. Back to the road with road works but from here the works are almost finished and went much faster.

Arrived after lunch at the border. It is just a mud field full of trucks and a few office buildings. No indication where to go. I could not find customs, but I found immigration, The guy was completely puzzled what to do with me and my bike. After a few phone calls I was redirected to another building (got offered water again). I think I have been in every office room there. They kept asking for my bike registration and I kept giving the registration with stamps I got when entering. They did not understand that was the paper they needed to stamp.

But as you go past every office at a certain moment you hit the right one and in 30 seconds I had the necessary stamp. Drove back to immigration, handed over my passport and stamped vehicle form and another 30 seconds later I was stamped out. A check when you leave the gate and then it is a 50-meter ride to the Iranian border.

Very friendly soldiers that also had no clue what to do with me. And they tried their best but I had the feeling they did not get very much help from police/customs.

They broad me a chair (and a juice) and I sat and waited for an hour between Iraq and Iran. being stamped out in one country and not let in, in the other (to start the process) is a bit discomforting. But also here, the moment the right people were found it was minutes of work. Customs went with my Carne to get it stamped while I was escorted to the police to get my visa stamped. Finished at the same time and I was allowed to go.

But I made a "mistake". I did not expect to find insurance outside the gate so when I was dressing up to leave, I asked the Carnet guy if I could get insurance nearby. He immediately started calling and I spent another 1,5 hours waiting (not alone, from the moment I arrived at the border I had people gathered around me asking questions and taking pictures. All very friendly). Used that time to get a sim card and change money (for a very bad rate according to internet). I still don't have insurance as the internet was not working. So, I must go back tomorrow. They did not want to let me out of the gate as I needed insurance. But I think there was a misunderstanding here. Somebody drove with me, and I think they thought that my carnet was not stamped. Anyway, already too late to move so I am in a basic hotel a few km from the border.

That hotel did not want to have my bike parked in front of the hotel (on their own ground). Yes, it is very safe here. Then fine with me, I get my luggage inside and lock my bike. Was not good and he wanted me to put my bike in his storage room which was really not possible. I did not understand the issue until he could make clear that he was scared that Iran would win from the US with football tonight and that the party following would destroy my bike :-) We found a spot with the neighbours.

Sorry, way too much text again :-)

Not too much text at all!
Please continue posting!
Currently, I am a bit scared of the Iran situation and am so happy to get first hand information here!
Especially, as one option on our way could be also crossing from Iraq into Iran. More likely is turkey, though. But it won't happen before next spring.

Great report, this is the first account that I read of crossing at that point with a vehicle, congratulations and thanks for sharing. So you are in Qasr-e Shirin now?

'Very friendly but no idea of what to do with me' describes most meetings with Police in Iraq in my experience. Great place to travel but you need some patience! Sounds like you got out of Iraq with less hassle than I had getting out at Ibrahim Khalil, good border crossing! If I can enter Iran without being offerred insurance, I count that as a good border crossing.

Enjoy the ride to Ilam and onwards. You are entering the long corridors of the Zagros mountains. Thr road from Shiraz to Bandar Abbas via Lar has quite striking scenery.

EO

__________________
EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.

Yes, in Qasr-e Shirin.

I am in am okay hotel named called: Traditional Siavash Hotels & Restaurants

The restaurant is nice.

Good information, thanks for sharing.

I’m interested in this route so please keep us updated.