I rode the KKH last summer aswell a lil before Bjorn. It's fantastic and all the trouble in Pakistan is over on the other side of the Shandur pass...chitral side of the NWFP. People are wlecoming and it's amazing. It really is my favourite place i have been in the world.
The road was not closed at any point last year due to the bombing off Afghanistan...it's not near the trouble. This is false information. This isn't your worry on the KKH.
It's amazing and i reccomend it highly. Chilas is nothing to be worried about, it's much lower down and most people just pass through it anyway; the feeling as the other travellers have said just isn't that welcoming and a couple kids seem to throw stones, i just wouldn't bother staying there; nbothing much to see anyway. A really nice detour on the way down to Islamabad is the road to Muree which is GORGROUS. +Murree is worth a visit for an overnight. Karimabad is a FANTASTIC place to chill out and stay for a few days. It's super cheap, has fastish internet but still has a nice high mountain feel and there are some incredible walks.
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Thanks
Joe
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