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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
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  #1  
Old 31 Oct 2021
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KKH - checkpoints/security
Hi all,

Appreciate that this might be a tricky one to answer, given the last 18 months or so.

When I rode the KKH in November 2015 by motorbike, I struggled to get away for most of it to explore side routes/surrounding areas independently, with the police insisting I just go from checkpoint to checkpoint, with an escort, pretty much all the way from Sost to Islamabad.

I'm now considering going back for a summer 2022 bike packing trip on a MTB for 3 weeks, but only if I've got the ability to independently explore in a way I couldn't last time.

In 2015, there were some kind of armed operations taking place due to internal unrest in Gilgit-Balitstan which no doubt contributed to the wariness of the police, but I must admit I'm unaware of what the latest is on that; it might be that they have calmed down. I need to research that, clearly.

Does anyone have any up to date information on how stringent the security might be for a foreigner/Westerner visiting and travelling independently, as described?

Thanks,

Ed
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  #2  
Old 1 Nov 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardbgill View Post
Hi all,

Appreciate that this might be a tricky one to answer, given the last 18 months or so.

When I rode the KKH in November 2015 by motorbike, I struggled to get away for most of it to explore side routes/surrounding areas independently, with the police insisting I just go from checkpoint to checkpoint, with an escort, pretty much all the way from Sost to Islamabad.

I'm now considering going back for a summer 2022 bike packing trip on a MTB for 3 weeks, but only if I've got the ability to independently explore in a way I couldn't last time.

In 2015, there were some kind of armed operations taking place due to internal unrest in Gilgit-Balitstan which no doubt contributed to the wariness of the police, but I must admit I'm unaware of what the latest is on that; it might be that they have calmed down. I need to research that, clearly.

Does anyone have any up to date information on how stringent the security might be for a foreigner/Westerner visiting and travelling independently, as described?

Thanks,

Ed
In 2017 I had no escort from China border to India border.
The only checkpoint where it seemed to me that the situation was a bit more tense was the one in Chilas, but I took the road to the Babusar pass and everything was easy...
Friends from advfactory.com went on KKH this year and I'm sure they have more fresh info...
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  #3  
Old 1 Nov 2021
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I flew into Gilgit in 2018, picked up a rental and had no problem going up to the Chinese border and out to Skardu, just a few check points where they took my details but did not tell me where I could and could not go, I got a bus down to Lahore before crossing into India again without a problem.
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  #4  
Old 2 Nov 2021
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You will only require escort on the Baluchistan crossing to Iran. KKH has no issues. Further East you will be prohibited from traveling near the LoC, Taobat etc but no escorts.
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  #5  
Old 16 Jan 2022
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KKH is fine now without restrictions although some affectees of the underconstruction dam near Chillas were unhappy some time back.

Only in certaing parts of Balochistan close to Afghanistan foreigners need police escort.

Finally Pakistan is (nearly) fine, you're welcome.
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  #6  
Old 30 Mar 2022
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Hi edwardbgill!

Conditions are much better compare to 2015. There is not police escorts in Gilgit Baltistan anymore (Some checkpoints). Gilgit city to khunjerab pass there is no check points as well where foreigner travellers need to register themselves.

There are two routes from to reach between china to Indian border. Islamabad to Gilgit Route 1) Besham via Karakoram Highway, Route 2) Naran via Babusar top.

Route 1 is still have escorts between Besham and Chilas which is just one day ride almost 220km.

Route 2 is more chill no escorts but because its high attitude pass (babusar), this route just stay open between Mid June to October End.

Hope My answer help you plan your trip

Best Regards,
Shah
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