Agree Fuarks is the best place to hire bikes.
I crossed from Stung Treng, north Cambodia into Laos in November '09 on my own motorcycle. I was told by immigration that the customs building was 4km up the road. Despite asking several people and riding up and down the stretch a few times I was unable to locate it. With light running out (having come from Phnom Penh) I continued on to Tad Lo without the bike having been stamped in...
Fortunately when exiting from Laos into the north of Thailand, after receiving the immigration exit stamp from the centre of Houei Xai, my bike was lifted into a canoe and taken across the river into Thailand, having never been inspected by customs. No problems once on the Thai side.
I was in Laos just over 2 weeks & was never asked for any documents even though the roads were overflowing with police & military due to the SEA Games.
Regarding head lights in Laos, apparently these must be off during the day in Cambodia also. After 3000km in 2 weeks through Cambodia, I was 'fined' 1USD by a police & military random roadside stop about 40km south of the Lao border. The ticket / receipt issued in triplicate looked reasonably legit.
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