1) Where to live for good riding. I may have a choice as to which major city I live in. Since I may have a choice, I may as well pick somehwhere where I can find some two-wheeled adventure.

Reply:

Definitely Bangalore, first choice. Though Delhi with time will feel more managable and you have access to the Himalaya foothills for longer trips.

I have lived in India twice for a year each time. When I had a friend come over a few weeks to save time we shipped my bike down from Ladakh to Delhi. You have to drain all fluids, and pad the heck out of it. It cost us $90 by plane. No kidding!

Another option to save time to go for longer trips: ship on the train with you.

Mumbai is a great jumping off point too.

2) General advice on riding there. I've rented 250's a couple of times in Kathmandu so I'm somewhat familiar with avoiding cows during rush hour, honking constantly and the general mayhem of riding over there but any other India-specifc riding tips would be helpful.

I wouldn't consider having anything other than an Enfield 350. The 500 you can still have some trouble finding parts outside of a major city.

No need for anything bigger, I travelled with heavy luggage up Himalayan roads, not problem. Sometimes I'd have a large passenger, still not problem.

I've ridden in Nepal and India. Nepal is far more pleasant and less insane. Double the chaos for city driving and you'll have an idea.

Same rules of the road, he who is biggest has the right of way.

Don't ride at night. One: no light other than your headlight at night (outside of city). I foolishly disregarded this advice once and almost didn't live to tell my tall tales.

1. Potholes big enough to swallow cows are not visible.

2. Sometimes trees or telephone poles are paved around (no kidding) and can be as much as 6 feet in the lane.

3. Road surface can change without warning from pavement to gravel, to sand, to mud. Worse, sometimes the road will be washed away or have collapsed off.

4. 99% of the trucks and other cars and motorcycles will ride WITHOUT THEIR HEADLIGHTS! This is to save on buying 5 rup. bulbs.

5. Bandits (no kidding) will throw out obstacles or set up road blocks to rob travellers. This is a huge problem in Bihar and in some of the foothills.

6. If you take a spill or break down only other fools or shifty types are out on the road and those are the folk around.

3) What's a good bang for your buck approach to picking up a bike over there and what bike? I'm tempted to go with a 250 since I'll probably be just taking short trips but am not averse to advice on what else might be a good short trip adventure bike over there. Are there any half-assed bikes for a good price anyone would recommend? Obviously, reliability would be a nice thing and I'm willing to cough up a little extra dough to get it. I'd kind of like to go for a BMW F650 but it's probably too much bike for my needs.

Reply:

Pretty much what is readily available in India are small 250cc (Hondas, Yamahas and makes you've probably not heard of) or Enfields. You are starting to see luxury bikes, but bear in mind availablity of mechanics and parts.

If there is even a remote chance of doing any travel outside of the city go with an Enfield. My friend had a yamaha, and quite frankly the smaller bikes throw you around and the seats after 20 minutes are murderously uncomfortable! Enfields you can buy the old fashioned bicycle like seat that has coils and is way more comfortable.

The weight of the bike just makes more sense.

Have 500cc front brakes put on the front wheel otherwise the standard 350cc model comes with weenie brakes that are useless.

4) Licensing: What's it take to get a MC license there? Do I really need one if I've got my US license with me?

Reply:

No need for a drivers license. Most riders in India don't have one. The police never check for license, but they do check for insurance. My insurance cost about $8 for a year.

No need to even register, the licence plate number stays with the bike for the duration of the bikes life unless you move to a different state. Foreigners technically can't buy bikes/register them so the police don't expect you to be on the owner's papers. Carry copies of your papers, not the originals.

Unless it was a road block I would pretend I didnt' see the police.

the only reason they stop anyone is for baksheesh (bribes). Unless you're up for an exercise of extreme frustration and a trip down the rabbit hole, pretend not to see.

Answers to my questions and any other advice is much needed and most appreciated.[/B][/QUOTE]

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Yoga Hoolagan On an Enfield