Me and my wife were there 2 years ago and hired our bikes from B&B m/cycles in Thamel ask for Babu. To get out of KTM easily leave early very little traffic. An alternate route to Pokahara is via Kakani and the back roads from there, great mountain roads and travel through very quiet Nepali country side hardly visited by tourists, takes a lot longer though. Highly agree with Fern Bardia is a great choice, Once past Butwal traffic thins out the further west you go till there's not much at all, again you will need a few days Bardia is great to relax in and good chance to see Tigers. If staying in Thamel check out Horizon hotel ask for Ramesh and mention Joe & Henrietta. Road from Pokahara to Butwal is another gem.
Joe
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