Hello,
We entered Tehran some days ago. Needed oil change as well.
Found some info here and like to share my experience:
Nouriani Enterprises (BMW importer) is closed: phone numbers and email don't work anymore.
Gomrok (Razi Square) is the place to go. There are a lot of bike shops and part dealers.
With the help of a random shop owner, we found Ghaders shop (35.687202°,51.428838°). Ghader has Motul and Motorex oil in all the common specifications. Unlike the other shops, his shop is clean and organized. He even has original Yamaha XT oil filters and organized a BMW car oil filter for my F800. He has chain spray as well! His people were very friendly, they bought us lunch while we were waiting. Ghader doesn't really speak english, so just show up with your bike and he will understand what you need (or a customer will translate).
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