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30 Dec 2008
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Vietnam
Inspired by Top gear I’m thinking about heading out to Ho Chi Minh City this summer and renting/buying an old 110cc/125cc, riding north until hitting Ha Noi and then finishing in Ha Long. I have been riding almost a year and am wondering about the dos and don’ts of Vietnam.
I understand: - How to rent a motorcycle (ish)
- That the traffic is dangerous in the cities and out in the countryside
- There are a few ATMs in the cities, and you can get a map of these
- That I am going in the tropical cyclone/busy season
I would like to know:
H - ow much cash I should carry on me. Dong and Dollar.
- How likely I am to be pestered about documents by the law
- How do I get motorcycle insurance for ma ten day trip in Vietnam?
- Can I really rent a bike anywhere?
Oh and any good places to stay the night, or even buy a motorcycle.
Thanks for the help.
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31 Dec 2008
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I tried to do this same journey in April this year Tommy, as part of my overall plan to ride from Ho Chi Minh city to Rome.
Whilst renting a bike in Ho Chi Minh city is easy and cheap, the renters will not let you take the bike out of the city itself and one-way rentals are an absolute no-no. I spent 3 days stuffing around trying to rent/buy a bike before gving up on the idea, taking a sleeper bus to Hanoi, crossing into China and buying a new Chinese 125cc on the border.
The best I could do whilst in Vietnam was rent a bike for the day (rentals are cheap - only cost me $5 for the day) and ride down to Vung Tau and back (I lied to the owner about where I intended to ride it but he was a bit suspicious about why I had added so many kms to the odo when I returned it!).
The other thing you need to consider is that the renters demand to keep your passport as security for the bike.
As far as buying a bike goes you will pay a premium as a non-local and will struggle to sell it at the other end. Don't consider buying a used bike though - the only used bikes around are old and dangerous as owners do not bother to maintain them and simply throw them away when they are totally worn out.
You can probably buy a new 125 for $1,000 - $1,500 but be prepared to lose at least half that when you sell at the other end.
Garry from Oz.
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31 Dec 2008
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Hi Tommy,
Upfront disclaimer: I used to work for the same motorcycle tour operator that provided the Minsks used by Top Gear. The company is Explore Indochina - motorcycle tours & motorbike adventures in Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia. , and the only reason I don't work there any more is that I've moved to another country. But this is independent advice from someone who rode in VN for seven years, not a plug for the business.
To be honest, the two routes you want to take, from HCM City to Hanoi and from Hanoi to Ha Long, are the two worst rides in the entire country, in terms of traffic, risk, scenery and pretty much everything else. Highway 1 is built up for almost its entire length and is rarely wider than one or two lanes! Also, as Farqhuar says, it is difficult to rent a motorcycle in HCM City for an extended journey.
It was once possible to rent a Minsk motorbike from Cuong in Hanoi and ride it to HCM City, where his brother would collect it and send it back on the train. Cuong no longer rents out Minsks to independent riders, and only works with Explore Indochina these days.
It could be possible to buy a second-hand Minsk in Hanoi from an expat, tourist or one of the rental shops but you will need a mechanic to look over it before you head out. Minsks used to be ubiquitous in the north, but be aware that few mechanics know the bikes these days or carry spares. You may be able to find second-hand bikes for sale here: Classifieds | The New Hanoian
If you want to ride in Vietnam, I suggest you look into the north, where all of the big mountains, windy roads and hill tribes can be found. Have a look at Minsks - a set on Flickr for some of my photos of the bikes and the scenery up north. There are some good suggested rides and info/propaganda about Minsks at http://www.minskclubvietnam.com
You are unlikely to be stopped by traffic police at all, as a foreigner, unless you are involved in an accident. You can now find ATMs in some of the bigger northern towns, such as Lao Cai, Lang Son, Cao Bang and Ha Giang. You need to carry your passport at all times, and you can only stay in hotels or established homestays (no camping or staying in local homes). You also need permits and a local guide in some areas, including the Sapa valley.
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31 Dec 2008
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ok cool, a lot of good advice there. i was thinking of doing the north instead and those pics look great.
so i should be ok to rent in hanoi and tour around the mountains for a few days?
and what about all the other makes of motorcycle, are they less precious about hondas or jinluns?
Thanks for the help.
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7 Jan 2009
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If you are interested in staying with local families or expats living in Vietnam then check out CouchSurfing - Participate in Creating a Better World, One Couch At A Time its basically a network of like minded travelers around the world to host and be hosted in native countries,etc. Enjoy and please report back as I am planning to tour Vietnam in the near future and love to hear how it went.
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7 Jan 2009
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ok so a little update for anyone wanting to go the vietnam....
My original plan was to rent in HCMC and drive north to Hanoi, although I was advised this isnt a very friendly ride and aquiring a motorcycle would be hard. So I chose to do the five to six day north west loop around the mountains.
I spoke to Mr Cuong and he is more than happy to rent me a Minsk, as long as I give him ten days notice, and maybe even a guide out of Hanoi. As far as for guides and permits around the Sapa valley, I have a Lonely Planet and it says nothing about this.
The one thing I have come to realise is that this isnt a 'cake walk', but a good challenge for a first timer of sorts. Bearing in mind I have ridden the peaks many times and have off road experience, I should be well prepared for the trip in hand.
Still cant belive im actually going to Vietnam in seven months. Sweeeeeet
Let me kno if u want more info from my Lonely Planet.
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2 Feb 2009
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Vietnam North
Just got back from doing a 3 week loop of the North, fantastic. My retention ability when reading through these threads is pretty low so if any one has some specific unanswered questions I'd be glad to help. Cold, not so bad. Then again I'm a Canadian from the prairies so understanding of cold may be different than others. I did put my long johns on though when going over the pass west of Sapa. You can go anywhere easily with the exception of Meo Vac- you need a guide and permit - worth the hassle for sure. You can check out Offroadvietnam for rentals. The guys there are great to deal with.
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2 Feb 2009
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nice one!
glad to here you had a great time, and some good advice there. in keeping with the curren tmood of the thread-maleria; did you take anything, or just cover up well?
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2 Feb 2009
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malaria
Malaria is present up there - I brought the pills with me but chose not to take them because I didn't see any mosquitos. I would think it's more of an issue in the summer and during the raining season. However, that's not a medical opinion just my personal choice.
P.S and I was in fact covered up most of the time cause of the coolish weather
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2 Feb 2009
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cheers mate, will take note. u will have to get ur pics up btw.
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8 Apr 2009
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Enjoy
Hello Tommy.
Still up for it?! All the advice here is invaluable and indeed accurate. Yes, Cuong is the first stop for motorcycle touring in Vietnam. Not only does he know bikes but the whole spectrum of touring in Vietnam. Recommended.
May I offer some advice too? The Minsk is the obiquitous choice for touring the highlands but have you considered other options? Cuong can also rent you a Honda Future Neo complete with pannier racks. I have just returned from Sapa/Lao Cai and all the vilages and rented/rode a Future Neo whilst there. It cost $7 a day to rent with unlimited mileage and was nearly new. It managed all the hills and tracks and was light enough to man handle when the going got too tough or sticky. It's very frugal and fits in with other local rides. I'm not knocking the Minsk, I have one, but a Honda may be more..'convenient'!
I live in Hanoi, a stones throw from Dr. Cuong, and I'd be glad to help any fellow Hubber who asks.
Pete
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