Hi I am planning a trip from the UK to Oz in 2013.

I have my hart set on a Drz 400, but have heard conflicting opinions on the different models.

I am asking what model people prefer? and why?
Also what modifications are suggested (apart from the larger tank). Do the drz 400's do well on long motorway stretches too?

Thanks
Rob

I think you mean 'K' and 'E' models. The 'K' is ONLY an 'S', the 'E' comes in 'S' and 'SM' models.

The 'K' version has a kick start and higher compression engine (due to a thinner base head gasket). 'E' versions are electric start and come in 'S' ("enduro") and 'SM' (supermotard) versions with much better front forks, a marginally shorter swingarm and 17" vs 21/18 wheels. Street only ? SM all the way.

The aftermarket tanks and racks which fit are generally different between the 'E' and 'K' models. Sometimes, there are differences based on 'S' and 'SM' models.

If you'll be in areas of dodgy gas the extra compression will only mean greater chances for pre-ignition (detonation) and with good gas a very mild increase in power.

The motors are very durable but have a few well-known problem areas which can be addressed beforehand: primary drive torqued & threadlocked; threadlocked stator bolts; CS sprocket (needs locking washer); the waterpump should be re-sealed with RTV prior to any long trip and an extra ceramic seal and oil seal carried - the repair is NOT roadside., etc. The charging system is good for 200 watts peak, 100 nominally. The stator cannot be rewound to increase power. The stock headlight is typically bad and night riding not encouraged.

The euro and asian models often have a PAIR valve which is easily and beneficially removed. A simple rejetting and airhole enlargement in the airbox both increases power and economy. Make sure the forks and shock are sprung to your weight PLUS gear.

They ride "heavier" than their weight as it's high and forward. They are fair at highway speeds but without the airbox/jetting mods rather pushed and a thumper on a highway just isn't fun for long in any case.

Make sure there's plenty of life in the front disk before departure. The brakes are barely suitable for the OEM bike's power and weight.

__________________
Orange, it's the new black.

In the UK, the models are

K - Kickstart only, enduro version
E - Electric start only, enduro version
S - Electric only, dual-sport
SM - Electric only, Supermoto Style.

I'd go with either an S or an SM but buy and fit a kickstart kit from the USofA.

I found the carb on the E very grumpy about big changes in altitude. The S (after getting all the odds and sods mods done) was much more tolerant.

The S & SM have indicators and slightly better lights. Also the sub-frame is a bit more luggage friendly.

I'll dig out some links to info later if you want but a quick search will bring up loads of stuff.

Pedantically, it's actually...

DRZ400 - Kickstart, enduro spec (higher engine tune, no pillion, plastic tank)
DRZ400E - Electric start, enduro spec
DRZ400S - Electric start, trail spec (less power, stronger subframe, pillion pegs, steel tank)
DRZ400SM - the 'S' version with 17" wheels and upside-down forks.


The 'K's you see in the model descriptions are just, as with all other Suzukis, the model year from 2001 onwards. So a DR-Z400SK4 is an 'S' model bike made in 2004.

The one thing they all have in common is a horrifically uncomfortable seat, so if you're planning on doing distance you might want to budget for having it remade with some actual padding in

__________________
dashmoto.net

Thanks for all the help people, I will be looking for the s model it seems. Will have to look into doing the modifications explained here too.

If anyone knows anyone with one of these bikes. Please keep me posted.

Any other information and suggestions... please post below. Will be much appreciated..

Is it suggested to go with soft luggage on these bikes? or boxes?

Forgot this . . . the higher compression "kicker" (only) has a Kehin flat-slide carb which effectively "pumps" fuel into the throat of the carb (like an accelerator pump on a car) to provide better throttle response.

The flatslides are common performance upgrades but do NOT add power per se to the bike but are a bit finicky starting in the cold or with elevation changes. Economy almost always suffers with a flatslide and the irresistible throttle response.

There's a video on YouTube showing two SMs - one with a flatslide and Yoshimura pipe and the other with a stock Mikuni CV carb and the MRD-SSW pipe. In a quarter-mile race the Mikuni & MRD run down the flat-slide easily.

My DRZ with Mikuni CV, MRD and air box hole get 28km/l and throttle wheelies in 2nd gear with 41/15 (stock) gearing.

__________________
Orange, it's the new black.