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Which Bike? Comments and Questions on what is the best bike for YOU, for YOUR trip. Note that we believe that ANY bike will do, so please remember that it's all down to PERSONAL OPINION. Technical Questions for all brands go in their own forum.
Photo by Stefan Thiel of Mark Hammond crossing a river in NW Mongolia

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  #16  
Old 5 Oct 2015
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From a post of mine on another forum, "I've always rated the XT660Z as the closest out of the box of a true dual sport adventure bike, able at one extreme to tackle cruising across Europe on motorways with weather protection, and at the other extreme to be useful on dirt roads. I gained a lot of confidence with mine (which I still have) and learnt that the way out of most off-tarmac problems is to open the throttle.

Despite only having a five speed box, the gears cover a very wide range of ratios. Yes, it could be lighter, yes the exhaust running up the side broils your left leg, yes the deep rims makes roadside puncture repair impossible for many, however what really lets it down big time is the intractable engine, and that's despite installing a stage 2 air box, the 'Kev' fuel mod and opening up the exhaust to remove the cat."


I'm 5'8" with a 30" inseam, and am OK with the bike at standard height. I bought a lowering link, tried it, got a lot of confidence compared with previous GS and GSA bikes, then decided I'd rather have the long travel suspension, so went back to standard height.

Edit to my previous post, the Tenere has now done 31,000 miles. The biggest problem remains the intractability of the engine, once above second gear it can't pull from below about 3,200 rpm due to hunting. I don't think there's anything else I can try.
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Last edited by Tim Cullis; 5 Oct 2015 at 19:45.
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  #17  
Old 6 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Cullis View Post
From a post of mine on another forum, "I've always rated the XT660Z as the closest out of the box of a true dual sport adventure bike, able at one extreme to tackle cruising across Europe on motorways with weather protection, and at the other extreme to be useful on dirt roads. I gained a lot of confidence with mine (which I still have) and learnt that the way out of most off-tarmac problems is to open the throttle.

Despite only having a five speed box, the gears cover a very wide range of ratios. Yes, it could be lighter, yes the exhaust running up the side broils your left leg, yes the deep rims makes roadside puncture repair impossible for many, however what really lets it down big time is the intractable engine, and that's despite installing a stage 2 air box, the 'Kev' fuel mod and opening up the exhaust to remove the cat."


I'm 5'8" with a 30" inseam, and am OK with the bike at standard height. I bought a lowering link, tried it, got a lot of confidence compared with previous GS and GSA bikes, then decided I'd rather have the long travel suspension, so went back to standard height.

Edit to my previous post, the Tenere has now done 31,000 miles. The biggest problem remains the intractability of the engine, once above second gear it can't pull from below about 3,200 rpm due to hunting. I don't think there's anything else I can try.
I guess there must be something in this bike that you keep it for that long despite of few glitches.

Question regarding plastic sum guard, I read it's tough enough as the side covers are. Do you think is really needed replacing with metal one?
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  #18  
Old 6 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Cullis View Post
Edit to my previous post, the Tenere has now done 31,000 miles. The biggest problem remains the intractability of the engine, once above second gear it can't pull from below about 3,200 rpm due to hunting. I don't think there's anything else I can try.
I'm surprised a re-map would not help some with this.
Sounds like a lean condition ... or maybe just the nature of the motor?

My DR650 and most singles CHUGG some at low revs (my 640 KTM's the worst by far in this regard. My DR CHUGGS some in steep terrain off road, this is helped by LOWER gearing and a Pumper Carb. (BIG PLUS!)

I think part of the problem is that F.I. is so efficient, runs lean to save fuel and comport with EU emmissions standards ... but does not take into account the characteristics of a BIG piston! Maybe it's a balance issue. Most modern singles have some sort of counter balancer to counteract this. DR has dual counter balancer. Dunno, just a thought.

With the KTM's (I had two 640's and tested two others ('98, '99, 2001) you quickly learned to keep the revs UP. No problem on road, but off road you'd get caught in too high a gear from time to time in steep terrain. CHUGG CHUGG CHUGG CHUGG

I wonder what El Forko (Horca moto Paul) would say about this.
He covered a lot of miles on his Tenere', quite knowledgable.
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  #19  
Old 7 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog View Post
I'm surprised a re-map would not help some with this.
Sounds like a lean condition ... or maybe just the nature of the motor?

My DR650 and most singles CHUGG some at low revs (my 640 KTM's the worst by far in this regard. My DR CHUGGS some in steep terrain off road, this is helped by LOWER gearing and a Pumper Carb. (BIG PLUS!)

I think part of the problem is that F.I. is so efficient, runs lean to save fuel and comport with EU emmissions standards ... but does not take into account the characteristics of a BIG piston! Maybe it's a balance issue. Most modern singles have some sort of counter balancer to counteract this. DR has dual counter balancer. Dunno, just a thought.

With the KTM's (I had two 640's and tested two others ('98, '99, 2001) you quickly learned to keep the revs UP. No problem on road, but off road you'd get caught in too high a gear from time to time in steep terrain. CHUGG CHUGG CHUGG CHUGG

I wonder what El Forko (Horca moto Paul) would say about this.
He covered a lot of miles on his Tenere', quite knowledgable.
Youre probably very correct when you say that this issue is about the bike running lean, EU emmision standards.
I have changed exhaust pipes to Leo Vince, changed airfilter and airfilter box to DNA (similar to KN I belive) and added different O2 sensor so that the ECU think thinks it is 10 degrees colder than it on reality is which makes the fuel mixture richer and added a different fuel sensor that makes the engine run better and smoother.
My bikes nows pull clean from around 2500 rpm in higher gears so its a reasonsble improvement. But compared to the Honda NX 650 Dominator I owned some years ago which was a carburated and oil/aircooled bike the Tenere is still less smooth and pulls weaker on low rpm.
So I guess its in the nature of this engine construction - as you also mention.


I have ridden around 80 k kms on mine, the last 70 on a long overland trip so I have done a few kms on it....
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  #20  
Old 12 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremens View Post
Question regarding plastic sum guard, I read it's tough enough as the side covers are. Do you think is really needed replacing with metal one?
The plastic one can take some, but it doesn't protect the water pump. I had some impacts on my guard in that area (adv-spec). Depending on what you ride it might make sense to add protection there. But don't buy something with covers the tank, this is not neccesary.
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  #21  
Old 12 Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by Maddin View Post
The plastic one can take some, but it doesn't protect the water pump. I had some impacts on my guard in that area (adv-spec). Depending on what you ride it might make sense to add protection there. But don't buy something with covers the tank, this is not neccesary.
thanks, planning to get sw-motech crash bars. They're not too high.
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  #22  
Old 13 Oct 2015
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I have a Power Commander V (PCV), DNA filter and stage II and an Exan single can on my 2015 Tenere. It's been set up on a dyno and is much smoother and rideable below 3,000rpm, pulls from 2,500rpm with no surging.
I've added a second bearing to the sprocket carrier and packed out the failing cush drive rubbers...it's much smoother to ride and worth all the work.
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  #23  
Old 14 Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by dommiek View Post
I have a Power Commander V (PCV), DNA filter and stage II and an Exan single can on my 2015 Tenere. It's been set up on a dyno and is much smoother and rideable below 3,000rpm, pulls from 2,500rpm with no surging.
I've added a second bearing to the sprocket carrier and packed out the failing cush drive rubbers...it's much smoother to ride and worth all the work.
I have a totally stock 2011 XT660Z and it's a great ride; no problems with surging or chugging at all; need to be in the right gear for the conditions, but that's about it. Not quite as smooth as my 2012 DL650, but still a great ride and a lot of fun. If I had to choose between them, it'd be a tough choice. Having done extended trips on each of them, I enjoyed them both for different reasons, but equally.
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  #24  
Old 14 Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by docsherlock View Post
I have a totally stock 2011 XT660Z and it's a great ride; no problems with surging or chugging at all; need to be in the right gear for the conditions, but that's about it. Not quite as smooth as my 2012 DL650, but still a great ride and a lot of fun. If I had to choose between them, it'd be a tough choice. Having done extended trips on each of them, I enjoyed them both for different reasons, but equally.
I'm glad that not everybody has problem with surging because I don't like heavily modify stock bikes. It's strange BTW why, is it differences in fuel quality or different tuning. I have read there is some tuneup setup in convig mode on this bikes, anybody used that?
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  #25  
Old 15 Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by tremens View Post
I'm glad that not everybody has problem with surging because I don't like heavily modify stock bikes. It's strange BTW why, is it differences in fuel quality or different tuning. I have read there is some tuneup setup in convig mode on this bikes, anybody used that?
I think a big thing is correct adjustment of the chain and good condition cush drive rubbers. Also, keeping the machine at the revs at which it is happy is important - that would be in first, any, in second about 3000 rpm min and above second about 3500 rpm min.
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  #26  
Old 15 Oct 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docsherlock View Post
I think a big thing is correct adjustment of the chain and good condition cush drive rubbers. Also, keeping the machine at the revs at which it is happy is important - that would be in first, any, in second about 3000 rpm min and above second about 3500 rpm min.
Docsherlock is right about the chain adjustment and the cush drive rubbers.
Keeping this things right will make the bike smoother for sure.

And one can of course say he is right about keeping the machine in the right rev area. The problem is to do this. Above 5000 rpm it isnt much to get and under 3500 the machine will not pull clean. So you gotta keep the bike within this very narrow rpm limits. And you have only 5 gears to use. It isnt very conveniant or smooth - as I see it and feel it. And I have almost 80 k kms on a Tenere.

The last bike I had before the Tenere pulled clean from 1200 rpm and 30 km/h in highest gear, the Tenere (stock) pulls clean from 3500 rpm and around 85 km/h in highest gear. Get the picture?

My Tenere with DNA stage airfilter, Leo Vince aftermarket exhaust, Kev O2 mod and Kev fuel mod pulls clean from approx 2500 rpm (if opening the throttle relatively gently) and with changed gearing from stock 15/45 to 15/48 it will pull clean from around 65-70 km/h in highest gear.

The best would be as someone mentioned before a Power commander. And if you buy an aftermarket exhaust - buy a single can and save weight.
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  #27  
Old 15 Oct 2015
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...and got one today finally

nobody told me it shoots from the pipe

just had a short ride and smile on my face is already

thanks for great advice. Very nimble machine despite its size, I felt like on dirt bike.

p.s.
this shooting from the pipe is normal? or just when it' cold?
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  #28  
Old 15 Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by tremens View Post
...and got one today finally

nobody told me it shoots from the pipe

just had a short ride and smile on my face is already

thanks for great advice. Very nimble machine despite its size, I felt like on dirt bike.

p.s.
this shooting from the pipe is normal? or just when it' cold?
Comgratulations with a new bike!

The shooting/popping from the exhaust can easily be eliminated. Its the AIS system who makes this noise when youre coming off the throttle. Cold air intake system. Look it up on XT660.com and get the details.
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  #29  
Old 15 Oct 2015
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Yes, most singles tend to have "de-cell popping" when you shut throttle ... especially when brand new. Once the engine is broken in this popping should decrease some ... but will not go away completely until mods to AIS and other mods are made.

In DR650 world this is also a common issue and a good reason NOT to have a LOUD pipe. with the stock pipe you can live with it, with a loud pipe it's a bit annoying.

Best of luck with the new machine! Ride carefully until you get to know your new baby!

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  #30  
Old 18 Oct 2015
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I did few hundred km already on road, in town and off road and I don't have any problem with surging. Need only to adjust clutch cable cause doesn't disengage completely when the lever is not pulled all the way. Other then that great motor, great suspension for my weight (106 kg). As for now I don't feel I'd need any mods.
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