Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdcook
Dr650 vs KLR 650? still trying to decide, I think the DR would be nice if i spent a bit more on modifications than i would have to do to the KLR.

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Required mods are about the same for both bikes. The KLR does not need a bigger tank, DR does. But the plastic Acerbis tank takes about 6 lbs. off the weight of the DR ... and it won't DENT like the metal KLR tank.
What both bikes need:
suspension upgrade front and rear
Seat (stock KLR seat is better than stock DR seat but both are crap)
racks/luggage
tuning: carb, intake, exhaust
Lighting
Protection (bash plate, case guards, bark busters)
Here's the thing: The DR is much easier to work on. Ask anyone who's owned and worked on both. Carb mods easier on DR with results that REALLY makes a big difference ... not so much on a KLR. Valve adjustments a PITA on KLR, 20 minutes or less on accessible DR valves.
Fuel Economy. About even ... around 50 MPG if tuned properly or if totally stock, untouched. (both run better once modified, especially the DR650)
In the end, the DR is smoother running at highway speeds, faster everywhere, lighter, more nimble and a better handling bike on a tight twisty road.
The DR650 is MUCH easier to handle in tough off road conditions ... big plus riding a loaded up bike on a long trip. The DR for example, handles deep desert sand remarkably well ... Vs. the KLR which IMO, is pretty tough to ride in deep sand.
Smoother? Why?

Double counter balancer engine, rubber shock mounted handle bars and foot pegs. Smooth at 75 mph.
The KLR has a small fairing & shield. On my KLR, I took shield off ... and after one trip to Baja, I broke or cracked plastic fairings in minor tumbles
No such issues in dozens of falls on my DR650 as it has no breakable plastic. It crashes really well. Not so the KLR ... with it's radiators, plastic fairings, steel tank and other vulnerabilities ... more a chance of show stopping damage to coolant hose, water pump or rad.
Both bikes need case protection.
If you want a windscreen on the DR, you can add one, but many don't like having a shield riding off road. (very distracting ... but good in cold). Many good shields available for DR650, a snap to install or remove!
Another important factor often overlooked: The DR comes stock with a 525 size chain. KLR uses a 520. Difference? You will go about 30% further on the 525 chain/sprocket combo. Downside? More 520 parts out there than 525.
I carry sprockets with me. 25K miles on a chain. (X ring)
Strike Two: KLR's typically USE OIL. A lot of oil. No problem if you remember to top it up ... daily. DR's rarely use ANY oil at all ... even at 50 or 60K miles.
Service: KLR uses shim under bucket system. DR650 uses
Screw type adjusters. A valve check/adjustment on the DR650 takes about 20 minutes start to finish.
KLR, tank and radiator must be removed, hoses and wires moved, them struggle to remove valve covers ... then find correct shims if valves need adjustment. About 1.5 hours if you know what you're doing and have correct shims. (I've done it multiple times on both bikes)
Both bikes have very stable tops ends and neither need much adjustment ever.
Weight: New version (since 2008) KLR's are about 50 lbs. heavier than DR650 (stock vs. stock) This is A LOT of weight. 50 lbs. accounts for nearly ALL the luggage and tools I carry on board.
Aftermarket support is great for both bikes.
Best to ride both and decide for yourself.