:confused1: Hmmm

Maybe I really am the only one with a sc model, or is it the -dreaded- new poster plague? I sure hope not, I could use a a bit of help here and this is a technical forum right?

1.) In all of the online parts fiche exploded views I've found to date (ex. attached), the primary main jet (fiche part 7) is noted as #130, and secondary main jet (fiche part 59) is noted as #125.

Clymers M416 - Carb Specs p. 271, show primary main jet #125 and secondary main jet as #130 (which, for those in need of hand holding, would be the exact opposite). Clearly, one is wrong.

As mentioned earlier, I removed an existing #125 primary main jet and #130 secondary main jet during tear down. That leads me to believe Clymer's specs are correct however, adding to the mystery, the bike also came with a #130 primary main jet in the box 'o parts.

I'd like to rebuild the carb to factory specs, can someone confirm the correct oem primary and secondary main jet sizes please.

2.) Soliciting input on this but suspect removing the emissions system will not effect a/f mix sufficiently to require either primary or secondary main or needle jet changes. Correct?

However, if I add a UniFilter, I've seen posts suggesting that a larger secondary main jet was necessary due to increased air flow. I find that kinda hard to believe, assuming all else is stock, since many say these bikes are set factory rich to begin with.

So whadda ya think or, better yet, whats your actual experience? Other than the UniFilter, I'd be sticking with the stock oem air/ exhaust systems for now and riding mostly at 500-1000' ASL.

3.) And today's -best- U.S. source for in-stock carb parts and prices is? Being a small business owner myself I generally prefer to support my local compadres, however, the Yammy shop is the only one around and chooses to bend customers over at the waist each time they walk thru his door for parts. Plus, I refuse to go back after these idjiots sent one of my new bikes home with several loose case bolts after it's initial service and it puked all 2+ quarts of oil on the garage floor.

I've been pricing the carb parts at boats.net (many motorcycle model year parts fiches available) to get oem p/n's and an idea of what the rebuild will cost, but would like to hear your happy referrals.

4.) Has any generous soul compiled a size guide for compatibility of O-rings in the carb? Since an assortment of 500 metric nitrile O-rings goes for about $5.00, I'd prefer not to buy $80 worth of expensive needle sets when I don't need them just to get the O-rings. Mine are so disintegrated I have nothing left to measure.

Specifically, any idea what size are used to replace O-rings on the following fiche parts: 10, 16, 25 and 54.

5.) Thankfully, the only other difficulties I've run into are:

a) Clymers p. 244: Secondary Carburetor Disassembly Step 17 says "On all models, the pilot air screw is fixed in a blind housing (Figure 38) and removal is not recommended as the housing plug must be removed." Why this isn't under Primary Carb Disassembly, who knows.

Regardless, there was no plug on mine so naturally I removed the pilot for cleaning/inspection. It was so gummed up with varnish and rubber I could barely back it out, never mind first turning it in to determine the original position setting.

I've seen posts that say oem position setting is (2) turns out, and I've seen posts that say (3) turns out. Can anyone confirm which setting is correct please?

b) Fiche part 16 (the 3-pc pilot screw set) shows a pilot screw, O-ring and, I presume, a removable needle seat which I can't seem to work it loose. How the heck do I get it out without buggering it all to hell?

Your turn.
Thanks for any comments

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