XT600E, 3TB. I've been having trouble finding neutral recently, and there seems to be quite a bit of drag from the clutch, even with the lever pulled all the way in. I've adjusted the cable to the point where there is no free play at all, but the drag is still there. Tonight I took off the RH engine cover and tried to adjust the clutch with the adjuster in there. I seem to remember someone on this site mentioning the procedure (but I can't find the post) which said to loosen the locknut and screw the adjuster in until resistance is felt, back off quarter of a turn and lock up again. I did this, and the problem is now ten times worse! With the correct free play at the lever, it won't go into gear at all (stalls the engine), and if I tighten up the cable enough to get it into gear, I can release the lever all the way and there is no drive. Obviously I have cocked this up big time. The manual talks about marks on the push-lever and crankcase, but I can't see them on my model (manual is for 1990, my bike is 1995). If they are there, they are underneath the starter motor, and the manual doesn't mention removing this. The bike has done 20k miles, so the clutch may well be worn out, but I though that would lead to slip rather than drag.

Anyone care to post a simple step-by-step procedure for this idiot to follow?

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2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

That happened to me when I put the kickstart on my '90 XT600E....

DID YOU LOOSE THE METAL SPHERE THAT IS INSIDE THE CLUTCH SHAFT HOLE????

you have to leave a little clearance on the butterfly screw because when you put oil in the bike and it fills the case it'll tighten things up a bit!
REMEMBER, LEAVE THE CLUTCH LEVER adjustment thingy half way! because you might have to either tighten it or release it a little when the oil has filled the clutch case!

I didn't dismantle anything, so nothing was lost from inside the mechanism. All I have done is loosen off the locknut in the centre of the clutch plate and tighten the adjuster in the middle. What seems to have happened is that I have lost the range of adjustment, so that when the lever is in, it's not fully in (clutch dragging), but when it's out, it's not fully out (no forward movement of the bike).

The manual (1990) talks about lining up two marks on the clutch operating arm and the crankcase, but I can't see these on my engine, even with the clutch cable off. Either they are not there, or they are hidden under the starter motor. The mechanism seems to be different from the manual. If I could get hold of a 1995 manual I'd be fine!

Thanks for your help.

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2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

We have two bikes here with same problem.Both of them have low miles on the clock so we didnt think that the clutches were worn.

There is no mechanical problem in the clutch but tyre keeps turning even you pull the lever fully.So you cant switch to neutral and gear cahnges are very noisy and hard.

We opened the clutch bowl and saw that they are not worn,still remaning their original thickness but the clutch pad's surface is looking very shiny.So they stick to clutch metal discs and have drag when you even release the pressure on the clutch.

Then changed the pads with the new ones,all the problem is gone,running smooth as never did.

Thanks Sinan. The screws and casings suggest the clutch has never been changed so, although it has only done ~20k miles, it is 14 years old and may well have deteriorated.

So if I renew the clutch (looks like 100GBP - ouch), what is the method for adjusting the new clutch after installation? I'm talking about that screw and locknut in the clutch centre again

Cheers

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2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

DO YOUR HOMEWORK BEFORE BUYING PARTS!

If you do go for one of those 100quid clutch you are insane man lol sorry

There are a lot of bikes that use all those same clutch parts as the XT... I will be making a list and posting it here for info!

Meanwhile, What I was saying and you didn't understand me was that.. in order to adjust the clutch on the inside of the engine you have to remove the clutch plate springs and clutch plate just to get to the adjuster (which I mentioned as the butterfly nut)!

INSIDE, where that butterfly nut fits into that axle, THERE IS a metal sphere. If you loose it, byebye clutch!

One thing I can say is, before you go and blow your engine cover gasket, PUT SOME GREASE on the casings!

It will allow you to fit the gasket easier because it holds it in place AND you won't damage the gasket when removing the casings to adjust your clutch!


Wait a couple of hours and I'll have the list here for all of us!


Vando