Most coments claim that synth oil does not lube better than dino, it takes heat better , lasts longer and cost too much. If it does not protect metal to metal contact better than dino they why does every body say to break new engine in with dino to seat rings better then switch to synth if synth it does not protect metal better? Seems a little contradictory to me, how about you Jens? My research when synth first came out said that it took much more pressure to force metal to metal contact with synth oil than dino. If so would this not help the fifth gear problem in the kick start motors? THUMPTHUMP

A well made machine can thrive on either,I read an interesting situation where a rider who mostly ran syn ended up using dino n had some oil consumption problems but in going back to syn it resolved the problem. That is the fix we can be in,if it is not available, I just use dino thinking its abundance is a plus,n it does the job , on to important things like how to lighten the load.Both machine n rider.

What is Dino? I use what they spec for each engine from fabric.

Here we go again

Don't believe everything you read !
NEVER listen to anyone on forums
Do lots of homework & still believe none of it

NOW, pick a bottle & be happy with it...............here endeth the lesson

__________________
My memory is becoming that good, I should be able to organise my own surprise party soon

A classic misunderstanding!
For break in you DO NOT want the SUPER film protection that synthetic oil provides. So DINO oil for break in is preferred because it allows MORE metal to metal contact and provides a thinner, less protective oil film ... which is exactly what you want for break in.

You WANT surfaces to make contact and mate up, sort of polishing each other and ALL interacting parts with contact, allowing parts to bed in and mate up.

With Synthetic, the super protective oil film prevents this as synthetic oil film is more effective! Not great on polishing new, rough edged parts.

Modern motors are pretty much RUN IN at the factory (they start and REV THEM with NO OIL in them other than assembly oil. Rev up, shut off. It does not take long for a very basic break in to happen ... but they are not totally broken in but rings are set enough to get away with running Synth oil straight away.

I'm old school, I still run a NEW motor 3 to 4000 miles on Dino oil before switching to Full Synthetic oil. On a big single, rings take a while to fully seat and achieve full compression (power). Also, it takes a while for valve gear to mate up and even trans gears must mesh and grind off slag and reduce drag.

This is why it's a good idea to do more oil/filter changes in the first 5000 miles or so. Lots of tiny particles are scrubbed off during break in ... and with Dino it happens quickly ... with Synthetic ... it may never happen at all.

Synthetic is especially good for Air or Air/Oil cooled motors like my Suzuki DR650. Many DR650's go over 50,000 miles trouble free, I'm at 60K now.
Runs like a top. Air/Air/Oil motor can run very hot. That extra protection from Full Synthetic is a huge BONUS and can allow motors to live years beyond expected life.

Here in the US some Syn oil can found cheap. Wal-Mart has deals on
various brands of Syn oil. I hate Wal-Mart and ONLY buy oil there ... as it's not available this cheap anywhere ... and I use a lot, doing 4 cars and 2 bikes ... so call me a hypocrite ... but if I find it elsewhere, I'll buy it there instead of Wal-Mart.

Mobil One is around $24 usd for a 5 liter jug. I buy "High Mileage" version, which is good on bikes, has NO friction modifiers, is not the "Green" version which many cars now use.

For bikes with WET Clutch, you DO NOT want the slippery Green version with friction modifiers. So use "High Mileage" or "Extended Use" versions.
Neither contain the friction modifiers.

An oil thread!

Personally I go for the 2-second run in. Drop the sump plug, fire her up, rev to the red line three times then continue the oil change. I use a mixture of used chip fat and whale oil. It's worked both times I've done it and alll the engines were totally fine until I sold them.

Did I mention I can sell you new engine parts, chip fat and whale oil?





Engines vary from a cast iron lump like a bullet that you want to survive, through nikasil lined modern engines that are run in at the factory that you'd like to keep for a long time, through to race engines where 0.0000001 HP matters more than a few weeks of life. One size does not fit all.

Do what the manufacturer reccomended unless you have a very specific purpose in mind IMHO.

Andy

That chip fat is dirty, I've seen it plug up filters and wreck a motor. I melt down cow and pig fat, nice and organic.

Here abouts we are still lucky enough to get our chips fried in beef dripping. None of your nasty low in polyunsaturated vegetable stuff.


ROFL


Andy

What brand of chip fat do you use? Can you sift it with a gym sock or should I use a dress sock? THUMPTHUMP

I was afraid I had to enter the weekend without a proper oil thread - but, hey presto! there it was! Weekend saved!

I have been recommended API SG synth on my old Guzzis due to higher content of zink and phosphorus (1200-1300 ppm). SM (600 ppm) on my newer bike with a catalytic thingy. Break-in is done by over-revving the engine and discard whatever run-in procedure the manufacturer recommends.

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HansP
All you wanted to know
about riding in Norway