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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #16  
Old 1 Oct 2005
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I changed the spring because of the horrible brake dive with the stocker. I haven't tried heavier oil yet as I've over-spent my toy budget for a bit, bike expenses may have to wait until after x-mas, I'm afraid. I was hoping to try anything free or cheap first.

You mention lowering the front. Is lowering the front (raising the fork tubes) worth anything in your opinion?

A new shock is absolutely in the plan for the bike. I figured the lack of damping was not helping. I have found three brands available here in the states; Ohlins ($700.00), Works ($550.00), and Hagon ($375.00 and $50.00 for heavier spring). I have had Ohlins and Works on other bikes and would own either again except for the cost. Since I recently bought my home I am heading towards the Hagon unless I hear their quality is not up to snuff.
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  #17  
Old 3 Oct 2005
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I remember myself having the same wobbling problem and trying to solve it all through front end, but at the end it showed itself as a misalignment of chain and sprockets at the rear. Check if your chain stretch is changing in one turn, and if so, check the alignment and rear wheel bearings.

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  #18  
Old 18 Oct 2005
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My 3AJ(s) both wobble a little at speed - especially loaded up. Check your steering head bearings.

Having said that, my 2 cents is to look to the rear end - problems at the rear tend to manifest themselves as front end handling issues. Your lack of damping in the rear shock may be the cause...

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  #19  
Old 19 Oct 2005
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Yes, the next thing I buy for the bike will be a new shock. Unfortunately, this will have to wait until the new year.

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  #20  
Old 26 Apr 2006
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Just Harden A Lot The Rear Spring And Put About 0,5cm Up The Forks
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  #21  
Old 1 May 2006
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I cant comment on the Hagon for the XT600, but when the rear OEM shock on my last R100GS headed south I bought one. I was financially challenged at the time, which I would say is the only reason for buying one.

Re wobble, whenever its happened to me its been (in order of frequency):
- tyre pressure
- knackered tyre
- tired forks (oil and springs)

Again not XT specific, but I dont think it needs to be, Im also a robust 100kg plus fellow. Encouraged to hear of similar people on XTs.

bob
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  #22  
Old 1 May 2006
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it is rear weak problem
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  #23  
Old 1 May 2006
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Tip - if the front wobbles, it's the back end - if the back wobbles, it's the front

your initial post said it all - no damping in the rear shock. And you're a big bloke.

Tip - if the front wobbles, it's the back end - if the back wobbles, it's the front end. usually...

My suggestion -
time for a decent rear shock. AND the heavier springs in front considering your size are a good idea. Slightly heavier oil in the front, same amount.
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  #24  
Old 1 May 2006
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Well the posts seem to all be going in the direction of replacing the rear shock, and I agree. I hope you find the funds to do it soon. I have 2 personal experiences with behavior similar to what was described in the original post. First was caused by Givi cases mounted too far back on the bike, and the absurdly soft and underdamped stock suspension on the Suzuki Bandit 600. Second was on a racetrack on a YZF600R at 140mph. This was repeatable lap after lap in the same place on the track. 2 clicks harder on the rear rebound damping adjustment was the difference between some wiggle and no wiggle. These may be different circumstances and different bikes, but I think the causes of wobble are the same with any motorcycle - baring any mechanical problem, it seems to go back to the rear shock being the primary culprit, with a spring that is too soft and/or rebound damping that is too weak. I guess the theory is that with the rear end bouncing around the castor angle is always changing, and that castor angle is one of the fundamental things that makes a bike balance itself.

What's interesting about bikes is even though they can be so unstable with the wrong setup, they are amazingly stable with a decent setup. I can't count the number of times I've experience some road hazard that destabilized the bike and then felt the bike recover from a big wobble in less than a second or two, even at really high speeds like those on a race track - as long as one keeps their arms relaxed and lets the bike's geometry do its thing. Well that's my slightly philosophical thought for the day.

Good luck fixing your problem.
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