I don't know.. I thought the stock stator, all the wiring was covered with a special varnish to avoid conducting/jumping around electricity (including the wire leads where they're soldered at..

so I bit the bullet and went at it with my soldering iron and heat shrink.

14.2 V

13.7 V with lights on and no sliding down the output like before.

the new stator is paid for so I will order up another gasket and wait......

Thanks for everyone's help and ears to bend

theoneandonlymin
x

That's pretty much how I recall the electrical wiring inside the generator cover; being covered in swirling oil, constantly, it is protected with some kind of coating that does look like varnish.
Come to think of it, isn't there a different, "braided", type of insulation on the wiring that connects to the stator?

__________________
Dave

Spoke to Electrex today who say that my repair should work fine . The varnish is to protect the copper wire . I heat shrunk the soldered connection to protect it . The woven sheath seems to protect the wires but is open at either end .
After the daily commute it is still charging.

Min

Cool! you still keeping the spare stator just in case yes?!

Any words about being able to use the xtz660 one?

Could you verify that your meassures is the same as the G73 for xtz660?

Outer Diameter: 103mm
Inner diameter: 42mm
Thickness through hole: 14mm

Not keeping it as a spare as it doesn't fit . Will return it and if I need the correct one in the future it is only a day away.

Lisa at Electrex 01491682369 was very helpful and said that the G73 is the one for me. Can't confirm about the fitment for the xtz660 but the sizes are correct.
Speak to her and and she will give you all the options.
Looking at wemoto.com electrx stators for your bike I can see where the uncertainty comes from.

Regards
Min

Anyone know the outputof this aftermarked stator, how many W?

Oh.. I thought you were returning that wrong one and they'd send you a the correct one...


"watts" the matter Jens, you want to add more gadgets? :P

Yeah, a boy's gotta have gadgets

Hi, I am having similar problems with my '89 tenere. I think it is the rectifier / regulator (doesn't produce the correct voltage under load) and maybe also the battery (doesn't hold much charge). I would appreciate if someone could confirm my diagnosis though or suggest more tests I could do.

Bike electrics: standard low beam, rear, and brake lights. Dual hi beam for 120w of forward lighting. Heated handgrips at around 25w. I know this puts me at around 170w at night, which is the rated capacity (12Ax14V=168W) of the charging system.

Symptoms: bike will usually not start. While riding, forward lights visibly dim when I apply the brake.

Ruled out: starter motor - the bike will always jump start.

Suspect: charging system - lights dimming; if I ride for a while without headlights, the bike will usually start next time.

So, I did some standard tests:
- checked continuity between regulator and battery, low (<1ohm) resistance) on both positive and negative.

- Checked resistance of stator coils. Low (~1ohm resistance) on all three, no connection to ground.

- Checked for voltage drops between rr and battery with bike idling and no load. Nothing significant.

- measured voltage across the battery terminals for various load conditions.
Idle, no load: 14.5V
Idle, lo beam: 14.0V
Idle, hi beam + heat + brakes: 10.7V (and dropping as the battery discharged)
3000rpm, hi beam + heat + brakes: 9.8V (dropping)
3000rpm, hi beam + heat: 11.0V

- measured open circuit voltage of stator windings. All measure around 22v at idle, 55v at 3000rpm.

Then I decided to see under what conditions my battery is charging and under which it is discharging. Unfortunately my multimeter is unable to measure current (came with a 10A fuse and a 5A solder track... brilliant). But I can figure out whether the battery is charging or discharging by measuring the voltage across my fuse (in millivolts). I found:
- idling or revving with the lights off, there is a small current charging the battery. (3 - 5mV across fuse)
- with just the low beams, the battery charges slowly. (0 - 3mV across fuse)
- with low beams and heated handgrips (daytime riding) the battery neither charges nor discharges.
- with hi beams, heated handgrips, and brake light on, the battery is discharging quite rapidly - I estimate around 4 - 8A if the bike is idling, or 2A if revving.

I know these tests could be better - use a multimeter that can accurately measure current; use a good, charged battery, but I am currently travelling (in turkey) and everything is more difficult and expensive/wasteful than it would be at home.

So, in the next few days I plan to get the regulator / rectifier replaced or repaired then see if I need a new battery. I guess one other thing that interests me is if I need to be concerned about my current draw and whether it is possible to increase it.

Cheers,

Barry

General guide

When the electrical system is operating normally the battery will not be charging nor discharging! This is because the battery is fully charged and the bike is 'running' off the alternator. To get to this state the battery must be recharged to make up for the large discharge of the stater motor, this may take 15 minutes. So brief measurements of the battery current won't tell you much.

The voltage readings tell a lot more .. anything less than 13 volts is bad when the bike is running. Less than 12 is untenable and you need to instantly reduce the electrical load.

The battery should sit at 13 volts or more for say 15 minutes before you shut the bike down - this ensures you have some charge in the battery to start the bike next time.

-----------------------------------------
Barry
Did the bike carry this electrical load at some previous time? Or have you just made the changes and found this problem? :confused1:

This tells us that

1) the bike can do it
OR
2) the bike may not do it .. simply too much load.

-------------------------------
You certainly cannot increase your present electrical load (under present conditions)! You would be well advised to actually reduce it! To start with the dual high beam - make it single, or keep to low beam.

For wiring faults; Check the wires and connectors ... for heat - use your hands to feel for it .. where it is warm you have a problem ... do this with your high electrical load on. The places you want to check are from the alternator to the battery - around the rectifier/regulator is a good place to start. Try not to burn yourself

Good luck.

Youre using way too much current with the dual highbeam, simple as that.

Agree. You need to switch to LED Lights as spots and a much lower wattage main beam

Yeah, I thought that the dual hi beams may be the problem. Still tryin to chase down an ammeter to confirm my suspicions that I'm trying to draw too much. Ive tried a different regulator and the problem still exists, but I'm not convinced the new regulator is any good (language barriers can be a real bitch when trying to do something very specific).

Warin - I bought the bike wired with dual hi beams so you would think it'd handle it. But then again, one of the previous owners has also wired a jump point on the outside of the bike, so it probably has had electrical issues b the past.

The reson I thought it important to check the current draw from the batter is that I believe the bike should never be using the batter while the engine is running, regardless of the state of charge of the battery. Any such condition indicates that the charging system is not providing enough power to run all the electrics.